Stefan Glowacz

Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965 in Tittmoning) is a German professional rock climber and adventurer.[1] He started climbing at the age of 12 and advanced to one of the world's best sports climbers only few years later. Since 1993 he has been devoted to natural challenges such as expeditions to remote places in Canada,[2] Patagonia and Antarctica.

Stefan Glowacz
Personal information
NationalityGerman
Born (1965-03-22) March 22, 1965
Tittmoning, Bavaria, Germany
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing, mountaineering
Highest grade
Sport
Retired1993
Medal record
Sport Roccia
1985Lead
Rock Master
1987Lead
1988Lead
1992Lead
IFSC World Championships
1993 InnsbruckLead
Updated on 1 April 2013.

Success in sport climbing

Achievements in rock climbing

  • In 1994, Glowacz climbed "The Emperor's New Clothes" (X+/8b+/5.14a), elected the hardest route in the Alps for at least 9 years
  • First ascents of big walls at the Una Peaks (Cape Renard Towers) in Antarctica; Tupilak and Ulamartorsuaq, respectively in Eastern and Southern Greenland; and Mount Harrison Smith in Canada
  • In 2001, he succeeded to be the first in fulfilling the trilogy of hardest multipitch routes of the Alps (all established in 1994), including Thomas Huber's "End of Silence" (X/8b/5.13d) near Berchtesgaden and Beat Kammerlander's "Silbergeier" ("Silver Vulture") (X/8b/5.13d) in the Rätikon
  • In 2006, he was nominated for the Piolet d'Or for establishing a 27-pitch route (IX+/7c+/5.13a, A2, M4) up the north wall of the Mullarón in Patagonia.

Books, Films

  • Jäger des Augenblicks
  • Richtig Freiklettern
  • Rocks around the World
  • Hoch hinaus
  • Titlis – Chronik einer Erstbegehung, DVD
  • The Race, DVD
  • On the Rocks - Leben an den Fingerspitzen (2005, Piper)
  • Cerro Torre: Scream of the Stone, (1991, directed by Werner Herzog), DVD

See also

References

  1. Scott, Chic (2000). Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering. Rocky Mountain Books Ltd. pp. 407–. ISBN 978-0-921102-59-5. Retrieved 27 November 2010.
  2. George, Caroline (June 27, 2008). "More Details on Baffin's "Long Way Home"". The Alpinist. Retrieved 27 November 2010.
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