Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics

Sport climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. The Olympics was originally scheduled to be held in 2020, but was postponed to 2021 due to COVID-19 pandemic.[1] It is governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC).

Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics
IOC Discipline CodeCLB
Events4 (men: 2; women: 2)
Games
  • 1896
  • 1900
  • 1904
  • 1908
  • 1912
  • 1920
  • 1924
  • 1928
  • 1932
  • 1936
  • 1948
  • 1952
  • 1956
  • 1960
  • 1964
  • 1968
  • 1972
  • 1976
  • 1980
  • 1984
  • 1988
  • 1992
  • 1996
  • 2000
  • 2004
  • 2008
  • 2012
  • 2016
  • 2020
  • 2024

Bid for inclusion

The inclusion was proposed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) in 2015.[2] In September 2015, sport climbing was included in a shortlist along with baseball, softball, skateboarding, surfing, and karate to be considered for inclusion in the 2020 Summer Olympics;[3] and in June 2016, the executive board of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) announced that they would support the proposal to include all of the shortlisted sports in the 2020 Games.[4] Finally, on August 3, 2016, all five sports (counting baseball and softball together as one sport) were approved for inclusion in the 2020 Olympic program.[5]

Competition format

At the 2020 Summer Olympics, two sport climbing events were contested: men's combined and women's combined. The competition format combined three disciplines of sport climbing: speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing. This decision caused widespread criticism in the climbing community.[6]

Members of the IFSC explained that they were only granted one gold medal per gender by the Olympic committee and they did not want to exclude speed climbing. The IFSC's goal for the 2020 Olympics was primarily to establish climbing and its three disciplines as Olympic sports; changes to the format could follow later. This tactic proved to be successful as they were granted a second set of medals for the 2024 Summer Olympics, where speed climbing will be a separate event from the combined event of lead climbing and bouldering.[7][8][9]

Events
Current program
Event20 24Years
Men's combined X X
Men's speed X
Women's combined X X
Women's speed X
Events2 4

Participating nations

The following nations have taken part in the sport climbing competition. The numbers in the table indicate the number of competitors sent to that year's Olympics.

Nation 20 24 Years
 Australia2
 Austria2
 Canada2
 China2
 Czech Republic1
 France4
 Germany2
 Great Britain1
 Italy3
 Japan4
 Kazakhstan1
 Poland1
 Russia–[lower-alpha 1]
 ROC3
 Slovenia2
 South Africa2
 South Korea2
 Spain1
 Switzerland1
 United States4
Nations19
Climbers 40
Year20
  1. Competed as ROC

Olympic records history
EventRoundClimberNationTime GamesDateRecord
Men's combined (speed)QualificationBassa Mawem France5.45 2020 Tokyo3 August 2021OR[10]
Women's combined (speed)QualificationAleksandra Mirosław Poland6.97 2020 Tokyo4 August 2021OR[11]
Final Aleksandra Mirosław  Poland 6.84 2020 Tokyo 6 August 2021 WR[12]

Medal table
As of the 2020 Olympics[13]
RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Slovenia (SLO)1001
 Spain (ESP)1001
3 Japan (JPN)0112
4 United States (USA)0101
5 Austria (AUT)0011
Totals (5 nations)2226

Medalists

Men's combined
Games Gold Silver Bronze
2020 Tokyo
 Alberto Ginés López
 Spain		 Nathaniel Coleman
 United States		 Jakob Schubert
 Austria

Women's combined
Games Gold Silver Bronze
2020 Tokyo
 Janja Garnbret
 Slovenia		 Miho Nonaka
 Japan		 Akiyo Noguchi
 Japan

References
  1. "Joint Statement from the International Olympic Committee and the Tokyo 2020 Organising Committee". International Olympic Committee. Retrieved 24 March 2020.
  2. "IFSC Proposes Sport Climbing For Toyko 2020 Olympic Games". The British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 10, 2019.
  3. "Surfing and skateboarding make shortlist for 2020 Olympics". GrindTV.com. September 28, 2015. Archived from the original on August 13, 2016. Retrieved August 8, 2016.
  4. "IOC Executive Board supports Tokyo 2020 package of new sports for IOC Session - Olympic News". Olympic.org. June 1, 2016. Retrieved August 8, 2016.
  5. "IOC approves five new sports for Olympic Games Tokyo 2020". Olympics.org. International Olympic Committee. August 3, 2016. Retrieved August 22, 2016.
  6. "Rock climbing will be a 2020 Olympic sport. Here's what to expect". National Geographic. Archived from the original on Aug 10, 2019.
  7. "Rock climbing will be a 2020 Olympic sport. Here's what to expect". National Geographic. Archived from the original on Aug 10, 2019.
  8. "Vertical Triathlon: The Future of Climbing in the Olympics". climbing.com. Archived from the original on Aug 10, 2019.
  9. "Olympic Committee Unanimously Votes to Include Sport Climbing in Paris 2024 Games". climbing.com. Archived from the original on Jul 4, 2019.
  10. "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Qualification Results" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  11. "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Qualification Results" (PDF).{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  12. "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Final Brackets" (PDF).{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  13. "Olympic Analytics - Medals by Countries". olympanalyt.com. Retrieved 2022-01-31.
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