List of first ascents (sport climbing)

In free climbing, a first ascent (FA), or first free ascent (FFA) is the first documented redpoint of a sport route or a boulder problem, without using aid equipment to help progression or resting. Notable first ascents of routes and boulders are that were regarded as milestones in the history of rock climbing are listed below. Records for flashed climbs (i.e. successful on first attempt), and free solo (i.e. no safety ropes) climbs, and deep-water solo (i.e free solo over water), are also listed. New "hardest grade" routes pre the sport climbing era that were traditional climbs are shown for completeness, as they were the hardest routes of any type at that time.

Part of a series on
Climbing
Wolfgang Güllich climbing in Frankenjura (Germany).
Background
Types
Lists
Terms
Gear

Grades proposed on hardest climbs tend to be provisional until a sufficient number of climbers have repeated the climb and a consensus is reached on the precise grade. This becomes increasingly difficult at the highest grades as fewer climbers are capable of repeating routes and passing judgment on their grades; some take decades to be repeated. For example, in 2001, Realization/Biographie was considered to be the world's first 9a+ (5.15a), however, in 2008, it was proposed that the 1996 ascent of Open Air, previously thought to be 9a (5.14d), might have in fact been the world's first 9a+ (5.15a) (Open Air was not repeated until 2008). However, as Open Air has seen very few subsequent repeats, whereas Realization/Biographie has had many (i.e. it is a "consensus" 9a+), they are both listed.[1][2] For this reason, longer lists of the most recent hardest routes are also shown (i.e. 2nd, 3rd and 4th places), as the final consensus gradings may not be known for some time.

Single-pitch routes

Redpointed by men
Adam Ondra on Silence 9c (5.15d) 2017

9c (5.15d) (Unconfirmed):

  • Silence (also Project Hard) – Flatanger (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route.[3][4] Remains unrepeated (December 2021).[5]

9b+ (5.15c):

9b (5.15b):

9a+/9b :

  • Flex Luthor – Fortress of Solitude, CO (USA) – Jan 2003 – First ascent by Tommy Caldwell and considered one of the first 5.15 in the US. Second ascent in 2021 by Matty Hong, who suggested a grade of 9b (5.15b), which could make it the world's first 9b route. However, before the second ascent, some of the route's holds had broken, possibly making it harder.[23]
  • Chilam Balam – Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – July 4, 2003 – Unconfirmed and disputed first ascent by Bernabè Fernandez,[24] who proposed at world's first 5.15c (9b+).[25] Adam Ondra after first repeat graded as a "low end" 5.15b (9b),[26] subsequent repeats set the grade at a "hard 9a+ or 9a+/b".[27][28]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

Alex Megos climbing Action Directe in Frankenjura (DEU), 2014

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c)

Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre The Face, are traditional climbing routes; they are presented for completeness.

8a (5.13b)

  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (USA) – 1979 – First consensus 8a (5.13b) in history, by Tony Yaniro.[5][6]
  • (Phlogiston – Devil's Lake, WI (USA) – 1977 – Sometimes proposed as first 8a (5.13b), by Peter Cleveland,[6] but later clarified as a top rope.[34])

7c+ (5.13a)

  • The Phoenix – Yosemite, CA (USA) – 1977 – Although chiseled at the start, considered the first consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Ray Jardine[5][6]

7c (5.12d)

  • Psycho Roof – Eldorado, CO (USA) – 1975 – Only one ascent, due to large broken flake. Possibly harder than 7c in 1975. Estimated as first 7c (5.12d) in history, by Steve Wunsch[5]

7b+ (5.12c)

  • Macabre Roof – Ogden, Utah, (USA) – 1967 – First 7b+ (5.12c) in history (on contemporary regrading, still very few ascents), flashed by Greg Lowe[5]
  • Super Crack – Shawangunks, (USA) – 1974 – Long considered first-ever consensus 7b+ (5.12c) by Steve Wunsch[5][6]

7b (5.12b)

7a+ (5.12a)

Thimble, the 1960s
  • Thimble – Needles, SD, (USA) – 1961 – Free soloed. Short but dangerous, due to guardrail below in 1961. Considered first 7a+ (5.12a) in history, by John Gill.[5][6]

7a (5.11d)

Redpointed by women

9b (5.15b):

9a+ (5.15a):

9a/9a+ :

  • Bimbaluna – Saint Loup (SUI) – 1 May, 2005 – World's first-ever female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.[6][42][49]
  • Open your Mind direct – Santa Linya (ESP) 17 March, 2015 – Second female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route (once a potential first 9a+), by Ashima Shiraishi.[42][50]

9a (5.14d):

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

  • Come Back – Val San Nicolò (ITA) – 1986 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Luisa Iovane.[6]
  • Rêve de Papillon – Buoux (FRA) – 1987 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Christine Gambert, and Lynn Hill.[6]

Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first female ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre Come Back, are traditional climbing routes; they are presented for completeness.

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

7b (5.12b):

Onsighted / Flashed

The difference between onsight and flash has become less relevant with the advent of recording route beta on social media, however, exceptional flashes are recorded where they were recorded as such by climbing sources (e.g. Janja Garnbret's 8c (5.14b) flash of the Spanish classic route La Fabelita at the age of 16 in 2015).[55]

9a+ (5.15a):

  • Super Crackinette – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash in history, by Adam Ondra.[56]

9a (5.14d):

  • Estado Critico – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos.[57]
  • Cabane au Canada – Rawyl (SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[58]
  • Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[59]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

  • Massey Fergusson – Calanques (FRA) – 1995 – First-ever 8b+ onsight, by Elie Chevieux.[6][65]
  • Maldita María – Cuenca (ESP) – 1996 – Second-ever 8b+ onsight, by Elie Chevieux.[6]
  • Hidrofobia – Montsant (ESP) – 2006 – First-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.[6][64]

8b (5.13d):

  • Liaisons Dangereuses – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by Elie Chevieux[6]
  • Steriod Performance – Horai (JPN) – December, 2004 – First-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.[6]

8a+ (5.13c):

  • Centre Court – Frankenjura, (GER) – 1989 – First-ever 8a+ on-sight, by Jerry Moffatt.
  • Bon Vintage – Terradets (ESP) – April, 2000 – First-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.[6]

8a (5.13b):

  • Samizdat – Cimai (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a on-sight, by Antoine Le Menestrel.[6][66]
  • Overdose – Lourmarin (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever female 8a/+ onsight, by Robyn Erbesfield.[6]
  • Simon – Frankenjura (GER) – 1992 – First-ever female 8a onsight, by Lynn Hill.[6]

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

Free-solo

Notable free-solos above 7c (5.12d) range; does not include "highball" boulder ascents because the climbers here did not use padding or spotters.[70]

8c (5.14b):

  • Panem et Circenses – Length: 15 metres (49 ft) – Muro di Pizarra , Arco (IT) – December 2019 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52.[71]

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

  • Revelations – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1985 – First-ever 8a free solo, by Antoine Le Menestrel.[6]

7c (5.12d)

Deep-water solo routes
Es Pontàs, sea arch in Mallorca, and DWS route, Es Pontàs, 9a+.

9b (5.15b) (unconfirmed):

  • Alasha – Mallorca (ESP) – September 12, 2016. First ascent by Chris Sharma, who estimated its grade based on the effort it took to climb it without rope: "If it had bolts on it, it probably wouldn’t be a 9b (5.15b). But when you’re 60 feet up with no bolts, it takes the same amount of effort.”[75]

9a+ (5.15a):

  • Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – September 26, 2007. First ascent by Chris Sharma. Repeated by Jernej Kruder in November 2016. It features a 7 feet (2.1 m) dyno that took Sharma over 50 attempts to stick.[76][77]

Multi-pitch routes

Redpointed

9a (5.14d):

  • The Dawn Wall – El Capitan (Yosemite, USA) – January 14, 2015 – 3,000 feet, and 32 pitches, at least two of which graded 9a (5.14d). Described as the hardest big wall in the world. Redpointed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 19 days, after 7 years of searching for the line and practicing.[78][79] Second redpoint on November 21, 2016, by Adam Ondra in only 8 days, after a few weeks of practicing.[80] Ondra was the first person to lead every pitch.[81]

8b+ (5.14a):

  • The Nose – El Capitan (Yosemite, USA) – 1993 – 3,000 feet, and 31 pitches, one of which is graded at 5.14a/b (8b+/8c). Described as one of the most important ascents in climbing history.[82][83] First to free climb was Lynn Hill with partner Brooke Sandahl. Was not repeated for 10 years after their ascent.

Free-solo climbed

7c+ (5.13a):

  • Freerider: El Capitan (Yosemite, USA) – Height: 3,000 feet (915 meters) – June 3, 2017 – First free solo ascent on El Capitan, and world's hardest multi-pitch free solo by Alex Honnold. Time: 3 hours, 56 minutes[84][85][86]

7b+ (5.12c):

  • Weg durch den Fish (or Fish Route): Marmolada (Dolomites, It) – Height: 3,000 feet (1000 meters) – 2007 – First free solo ascent, world's hardest multi-pitch free solo by that time by Hansjorg Auer.[87]

Boulder problems

Solved by men

9A (V17) (unconfirmed):

Christian Core on Gioia, first 8C+ (V16) boulder in history, 2008

8C+ (V16):

  • Gioia – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever ascent of an 8C+ (V16), by Christian Core.[91] First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below).[92] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade.[93][94] In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete successs, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade.[91] In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad).[89][95]
  • Livin' Large - Rocklands, (ZAF) – August 2009 – First ascent by Nalle Hukkataival who graded it 8C (V15), and first repeat in 2015 Jimmy Webb who confirmed an 8C; however a second repeat by Shaun Raboutou (and a failure by Adam Ondra), has prompted speculation that it is one of the first-ever 8C+ (V16) boulders.[96][97][89]
  • Hypnotized Minds – Rocky Mountain, (USA) – October 21, 2010 – Early ascent of 8C+ (V16), by Daniel Woods; repeat by Gelmanow,[89][98] and Dave Graham.[99]
  • Terranova – Holstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) – 10 November 2011 – Considered an early ascent of an 8C+ (V16), by Adam Ondra.[100][101][89]

8C (V15):

8B+ (V14):

8B (V13):

  • La Danse des Balrogs – Branson, Valais, (SUI) – 1992 – Considered the first-ever ascent of an 8B (V13), by Fred Nicole.[6]
  • Enigma – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1992 – Considered the second-ever ascent of an 8B (V13), by Philippe le Denmatt.[6]
  • Fatman – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1993 – Considered important early ascent of an 8B (V13), by Jacky Godoffe.[6]
  • The Dominator – Yosemite, (USA) – 1993 – Considered important early ascent of an 8B (V13), by Jerry Moffatt.[6]

8A+ (V12):

  • Trice – Boulder, Colorado, (USA) – 1975 – Ungraded at the time and unrepeated for 32 years, this boulder is now considered the world's first 8A+ (V12), by Jim Holloway.[6][109]
  • Partenaire Particulier – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1987 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A+ (V12), by Jacky Godoffe.[6]
  • L’à Plat du Gain – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A+ (V12), by Alain Ghersen.[6]
  • Superman – Cressbrook, (ENG) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A+ (V12), by Jerry Moffatt; later regraded at possible 8B.[6]

8A (V11):

  • C’était Demain – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1984 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A (V11), by Jacky Godoffe.[6]
  • Careless Torque – Stanage Edge, (ENG) – 1987 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A+ (V12), by Ron Fawcett; later regraded at 8A.[6]

7C+ (V10):

7C (V9):

  • Red Cross Overhang – Tetons, (USA) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C (V9), by John Gill.[6]
  • Speed of Light Dyno – Black Mountains, (USA) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C (V9), by John Long.[6]
Michael Rael Armas on Midnight Lightning

7B+ (V8):

7B (V8):

  • Gill Right Problem – Tetons, (USA) – 1958 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7B (V8), by John Gill.[6]

Solved by women

8C (V15):

8B+ (V14):

8B (V13):

  • The Automator – RMNP, (USA) – 17 August, 2010 – First-ever female ascent of an 8B (V13), by Angie Payne.[117]
  • The Riverbed – Magic Wood, (SUI) – 16 September, 2010 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8B (V13), by Anna Stöhr.[117]

8A+ (V12):

  • Liaison Futile – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 13 April, 1999 – First-ever female ascent of an 8A+ (V12), by Catherine Miquel.[6]
  • Atomic Playboy – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 2 March, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8A+ (V12), by Catherine Miquel.[6]
  • Solaris – Baltzoia, (SPA) – 15 April, 2003 – Second-ever female to ascend a 8A+ (V12), by Josune Bereziartu.[6]

8A (V11):

  • Duel – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – October, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 8A (V11), by Catherine Miquel.[6]
  • Berezi – Larraona, (SPA) – 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus 8A (V11), by Josune Bereziartu.[6]

7C+/8A :

  • Sale gosse assis – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 7C+/8A , by Catherine Miquel.[6]
  • Plain High Drifter – The Buttermilks, (USA) – March, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus 7C+/8A , by Lisa Rands.[118]

7C+ (V10):

  • Halloween – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1997/96 – First-ever female ascent of a 7C+ (V10), by Catherine Miquel.[6]
  • Le Grande Bleu – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7C+ (V10), by Catherine Miquel.[6]

7C (V9):

  • Miss World – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1996 – First-ever female ascent of a 7C (V9), by Catherine Miquel.[6]
  • Mayonnaise de Passion – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1996 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7C (V9), by Catherine Miquel.[6]

7B+ (V8):

  • Le Carnage – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1989 – First-ever female ascent of a 7B+ (V8), by Catherine Miquel.
  • Trois graines d'éternité – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1995 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7B+ (V8), by Dany Riche.
  • Midnight Lightning – Camp 4, Yosemite, (USA) – 1998 – Notable female ascent of a famous 7B+ (V8), by Lynn Hill.[6]

See also

References
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