Teba jacket

A Teba jacket is a soft, single-breasted jacket, unpadded throughout the chest and shoulders, and featuring shirt-like sleeves, ventless backs, notchless lapels and patch pockets with flaps.[1] It generally has four front buttons, either in leather or nacre. Despite Teba's are made in many fabrics, the most common are wool, cashmere and linen.

An olive green wool Teba jacket with leather buttons

There are several ways in which the jacket's buttons should be fastened when worn, but the bottom one should always remain undone. One combination could be to simply fasten the top three, the second and third, or only the second.

Origins

It was originally designed as a shooting blazer that would not make it difficult to raise the elbow when firing.[2] Contrary to common misconception that it was first tailored in Savile Row, the jacket was born in a small tailor shop in Zarautz, Spain, and was named after the 21st Count of Teba, Carlos Alfonso Mitjans y Fitz-James Stuart, who was gifted with a similar garment by Alfonso XIII during a partridge driven hunt in Spain.[3][4][5] The lady tailor in question, María Sorreluz Múgica, was commissioned by Teba to design a soft jacket on the lines of the one gifted to him by the king, for him to use at the pigeon-shooting in Igeldo and Zarautz, where he spent his summers.[6]

The Teba jacket has since been used not only as the utmost iconic piece of Spanish countrywear,[7] but also as a city outfit due to its popularity throughout the world.[8] From the beginning, Teba jackets developed a strong association with the aristocratic land-owning upper classes.[9]

A navy linen Teba was worn by Timothy Dalton as James Bond in the 1989 film Licence to Kill, in a scene where Bond resigns in Key West and becomes a rogue agent.[10]

  • A charcoal wool Teba with leather buttons.
  • An example of the cuff of a tweed Teba, with the horn button variety.
  • An olive wool Teba with leather buttons in a bird hunt in Suffolk, England.
  • A variety known as Teba sahariana (Safari Teba), a hybrid with a safari jacket.

See also

References
  1. Guy, Derek (2015-10-08). "The Slouchy Spanish Teba". Die, Workwear. Retrieved 2020-10-03.
  2. Chenoune, Farid (1996), A history of men's fashion (1st ed.), Flammarion, ISBN 978-2080135360
  3. Priego (2017). p. 205
  4. "Bel Teba Jacket". Bel y Cia (in English, Spanish, and French). Archived from the original on 2017-12-04. Retrieved 2020-10-03.
  5. Spiff (2021-05-16). "Spain is different. Teba!". Spiff Magazine (in Spanish). Retrieved 2022-02-28.
  6. El Diario Vasco: 'Teba', chaqueta de Zarautz - 3 March 2006
  7. Andrés Puch, "Chaqueta Teba: Un Icono de Estilo" in Spend In, 20 February 2015
  8. Schneider, Sven R., Gentlemen of the Golden Age (1st ed.), Gentleman's Gazette
  9. Mayor Ortega, Leonor (2019-04-21). "Vox o la revolución de las Tebas". La Vanguardia (in Spanish). Retrieved 2020-10-03.
  10. Spaiser, Matt (2011-09-11). "A Farewell to Arms: Navy Teba Jacket and White Shirt in Licence to Kill". Bond Suits. Retrieved December 4, 2021.

Bibliography
  • Priego, Count of (2017). Cazadores Españoles del Siglo XX. Turner Publicaciones. ISBN 978-84-16714-29-2.
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