History of rock climbing

The following is an overview of the history of rock climbing including its origins in Europe, and a compilation of notable events in the development of the sport.

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Origins

Although the practice of rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the 19th century in at least three areas: Elbe Sandstone Mountains in Saxony near Dresden,[1] the north of England including the Peak district[2] and Lake District,[3] and the Dolomites in Italy.[4] Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to an athletic sport in its own right, making it imprudent to cite a primogenitor of the latter in each of these three locales. Nevertheless, there is some general agreement on the following:

  • Heralded as a sport in England in the late 1880s after the (well publicised) solo first ascent of the Napes Needle by Walter Parry Haskett Smith, rock climbing attracted increasing numbers of participants. An early benchmark approaching modern levels of difficulty was the ascent, by O. G. Jones, of Kern Knotts Crack (grade VS) in 1897. Jones was attracted to the new sport by a photo of the Needle in a shop window in the early 1890s. By the end of the Victorian era as many as 60 enthusiasts at a time would gather at the Wastwater Hotel in the Lake District during vacation periods.[5]
  • Inspired by the efforts of late 19th century pioneers such as Oskar Schuster (Falkenstein, Schusterweg 1892), by 1903 there were approximately 500 climbers active in the Elbe Sandstone region, including the well-known team of Rudolf Fehrmann and the American Oliver Perry-Smith; their 1906 ascent of Teufelsturm (at grade VIIb) set new standards of difficulty. By the 1930s there were over 200 small climbing clubs represented in the area.[1]
  • The solo first ascent of Die Vajolettürme in 1887 by the 17-year-old Munich high school student Georg Winkler encouraged the acceptance and development of the sport in the Dolomites.[4]

As rock climbing matured, a variety of grading systems were created in order to more accurately compare the relative difficulties of climbs. Over the years both climbing techniques and the equipment climbers use to advance the sport have evolved in a steady fashion.

Notable events

Origins
  • 1492 : Antoine de Ville ascends Mont Inaccessible, Mont Aiguille, a 300-meter rock tower south of Grenoble, France. Under orders from his king, he used the techniques developed for sieging castles to attain an otherwise unreachable summit. The ascent is described by François Rabelais in his Quart Livre.[6]
  • 1695 : Martin Martin describes the traditional practice of fowling by climbing with the use of ropes in the Hebrides of Scotland, especially on St Kilda.[7]
  • 1786 : The first ascent of Mont Blanc is often referred to as the start of mountaineering's “modern era”.[8] It took another century before history documents the use of devices similar to today's fixed anchors: pitons, bolts, and rappel slings.

19th century
Napes Needle, first climbed by W P Haskett Smith in 1886
  • By the 19th century, climbing was developing as a recreational pastime. Equipment in the early 19th century began with an alpenstock (a large walking stick with a metal tip), a primitive form of three-point instep crampon, and a woodcutter's axe. These were the tools of the alpine shepherd, who was shortly to move from guiding sheep to guiding men, a much more lucrative enterprise. With time the alpenstock and the axe were combined into one tool: the ice-axe. Add a large, thick (and weak) rope, to help the client climb, and guide and novice were off to the mountains.[6]
  • 1848 : Sebastian Abratzky, a local chimney sweep, enters Königstein Fortress by climbing one of the chimneys in the sandstone faces of the plateau to avoid paying an entrance fee. This is now considered historically the first free climb in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains and still a climbing route known as Abratzkykamin (IV (ca 5.4)).
  • 1857 : Monte Pelmo was one of the first major Dolomite peaks to be climbed, by John Ball, the later president of the UK's Alpine Club.[9]
  • 1859 - 1869 : Paul Grohmann makes numerous first ascents in the Dolomites, such as Tofana, Sorapiss, Cristallo and Langkofel.[9]
  • 1864 : Gustav Tröger, Ernst Fischer, J. Wähnert und H. Frenzel, members of the local gymnastics association in Bad Schandau, climb the Falkenstein with artificial aid like ladders after several failed attempts. This is nowadays considered the start of rock climbing as a sport in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. The Turnerweg (III (ca 5.3)) remains the easiest route to the top.
  • 1869 : John Muir, famed naturalist and climber, wearing hiking boots, makes the first ascent of Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows as an on-sight, free solo.
  • 1874 : Otto Ewald Ufer and H. Frick make the first ascent of Mönch. This is the first free ascent of a climbing rock in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains without artificial aid for sport.
  • 1875 : Half Dome in Yosemite National Park was climbed by George Anderson. He used eye bolts in drilled holes as hand and toe holds. He used a fixed rope to return to his high point each day.[10][11][12]
  • 1876 : Donald McDonald a crofter from The Isle of Lewis climbs the great stack of Handa after rowing across. This is thought to be the first recorded climb for leisure in the country.[13] The feat was recreated by modern climbers in the show The First Great Climb for BBC2, which showed the difficulty of such a task.[14] This could also be considered the start of the Sport of Rock Climbing.
  • 1876 : Jean Charlet-Straton invents the basic body rappel in the French Alps. It is improved by many climbers over the years to its most useful form, the Dülfersitz, by Hans Dülfer about 1910.
  • 1880s : The Sport of Rock Climbing begins in the Lake District, Peak District and Wales in Great Britain, Saxony near Dresden, and the Dolomites. W. P. Haskett Smith is frequently called the Father of Rock Climbing in the British Isles, and Oskar Schuster was an early climber in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains.
  • 1881 : Benedikt Venetz leads Albert Mummery and Alex Burgener, all wearing boots with nails, up the first ascent of Aiguille Grepon, Chamonix, about 10 pitches total, via the crux, 40-foot Fissure Mummery, 5.7 R/X.
  • 1881 : Michael Innerkofler and Hans Innerkofler as the first people on the Kleine Zinne (Cima Piccola/little peak - Tre Cime di Lavaredo). With 5.5, it was a tremendous climbing achievement for the time.[15]
  • 1886 : W. P. Haskett Smith makes the first ascent (in free solo style) of the 70-foot Napes Needle (V Diff, about 5.5), in the Lake District of England. The resulting publicity introduces the general British public to the new sport of rock climbing.
  • 1887 : Georg Winkler, age 17, makes the first ascent - free solo - of Die Vajolettürme (5.5, seven pitches) Dolomites, initiating the sport of rock climbing there. He wears hemp-soled boots, used by sailors then, which became the standard sole for rock climbing shoes for decades.
  • 1892 : Oscar Eckenstein, a British climber and early bouldering advocate, conducts a bouldering competition, with cash prizes, among the natives while on an expedition to the Karakoram Mountains. ().
  • 1892: The first steel carabiners appear in Elbensandstein Gebirge, Germany. They can easily hold body weight, but are not reliably strong for leader falls.
  • 1893 : Lily Bristow is the first female to summit the difficult Aiguille Grepon, Chamonix.
  • 1893 : Devils Tower is first summited by ranchers William Rogers and Willard Ripley using wooden spikes pounded into a crack, and then connected with a rope. After 6 weeks they summited on the Fourth of July.[10][16]
  • 1897 : O. G. Jones leads, after a top rope ascent, Kern Knotts Crack VS 4b (ca 5.7) on the Great Gable in England

20th century
  • 1900 (approximately) : Oscar Eckenstein demonstrates to British climbers the concept of modern balance climbing on his eponymous boulder in Wales. ()
  • 1900 : Tita Piaz creates, on Punta Emma, Piaz Route, free solo, 5.7, seven pitches in the Dolomites, Italy.
  • 1900 : Heinrich Pfannel, Thomas Maischberger, Franz Zimmer do the first known FFA in history on Dent du Geant, Southwest Face, Chamonix, France, bypassing the spikes, ropes and ladders used on the FA.
  • 1901 : Michele Bettaga, Beatrice Tomasson, Artolo Zagonel make the first ascent of the 24-pitch South Face of Marmolada, Dolomites, (5.5, using only 4 piton/rings for anchors) in a day. The first Big Wall climb.
  • 1906 : Oliver Perry-Smith, W. Hünig, Rudolf Fehrmann climb, with a shoulder stand (and side rope for "protection"), Teufelsturm in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. About 100 feet. VIIb (5.8 then, today 5.9 all free).
  • 1908 : Tita Piaz, J. Klammer, R. Schietzold, Franz Schroffenegger make the first ascent of West Face of Totenkirchl, Austria, UIAA Grade V (5.7 with a tension traverse) 19 pitches. Perhaps the hardest long rock climb.
  • 1909 : (approximately) Felt-soled rock climbing shoes are introduced.

1910s
  • 1910 : Hans Fiechtl replaces the attached ring on pitons with an eye in the body of the piton - a design used to this day.[6]
  • 1910 : Otto Herzog designs and utilizes a stronger, user-friendly, steel carabiner, specifically made for tension traverses with modern pitons.[6]
  • 1910 : Max Matthäus, Oliver Perry-Smith, H. Wagner ascend The Grosser Falknerturm, Matthäusriß in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, VIIb (5.8/5.9 X), 200-foot crack and chimney climb.
  • 1910 : Max Matthäus leads Südriss on Kreuzturm VIIc (5.9+) Elbe Sandstone Mountains. The fist-sized crack crux was, perhaps, the hardest short climb for a decade.
  • 1910 : Angelo Dibona, G. Mayer, M. Mayer, A. Dimai, L. Rizzi climb North Face Cima Una, Dolomites, UIAA V+ (5.8) 2500 feet.
  • 1910 : Franz Schroffenegger, Franz Wenter climb Northwest Face Delago Tower, 450 meters and later, North Face Croda di Re Laurino, 500 meters, Dolomites. Each climb has a crux UIAA Grade VI- (5.9- X).[17]
  • 1911 : Paul Preuss makes the first ascent of the East Face of Campanile Basso, Italian Dolomites, free solo, with a pack and coiled rope, 900 feet, 5.7 on friable rock, then solos back down an equally-difficult route.[6]
  • 1912 : Meije south face, by Angelo Dibona with Luigi Rizzi, Guido and Max Mayer[18]
  • 1913 : Hans Dülfer free solos, on sight, Dülferriss on Fleischbank, Austria, UIAA VI- (5.9-) 6 pitches, 250 meters.
  • 1913 : Hans Dülfer, Willi von Redwitz, after a rappel inspection, climb Direct West Face, Totenkirchl, Austria, UIAA V+ (5.8 X and two rope-supported traverses), 700 meters, 23 pitches in 8 hours. Longest rock climb to date.
  • 1913 : Hans Dülfer, with only 3 pitons, leads West Face Cima Grande, 5.8 X, 8 pitches, Dolomites. He invents a 5-step grading system, the rope tension traverse and dülfersitz rappelling techniques.[6]
  • 1913 : Rudolf Fehrmann publishes the second edition of the guide book "Der Bergsteiger in der Sächsischen Schweiz" (The Climber in Saxon Switzerland), which includes the first binding rules for climbing in the area to protect the soft rock. These include that only natural holds of the rock are allowed for climbing. These rules for Free climbing are still in use and haven't changed significantly.
  • 1911 : Paul Preuss, an advocate of pure Free climbing, uses the term "artificial aid" to describe the use of mechanical aids, either to protect or progress up (or down!) a rock. His rule number four (of six) stated: "The piton is an emergency aid and not the basis of a system of mountaineering."[6]
    Note: The two principal uses of pitons on an ascent are as protective safeguards (not used for actual hand or footholds - climbers refrained from putting weight on them except in the event of a fall) and as direct aid (used to physically assist in ascending a steep or overhanging slope rather than merely as protection). Climbers like Paul Preuss and Geoffrey Winthrop Young argued strongly against direct aid, but others of that era, including Hans Dülfer and Tita Piaz, advocated using such devices as artificial aids in order to climb otherwise unscalable walls. After World War I most European climbers chose to employ artificial aid when necessary. However, from the beginning days of rock climbing as a sport, through the 1940s, another form of artificial assistance was at times employed by teams of two or more climbers: the shoulder stand. From our current perspective it seems odd that many of those climbers who strenuously objected to hanging on a piton found the shoulder stand to be quite acceptable. Occasionally, historical climbing photos, (e.g., ) illustrate this strategy, which arose from the perception that ascending a route was a team effort, with two climbers constituting one natural climbing unit. Something to keep in mind when reading of very early climbs in the 5.8 to 5.10 range.
  • 1914 : Siegfried Herford and companions climb, using shoulder stands, the Flake Pitch on Central Buttress of Scafell (5.8 A0, 5.9 today), England's hardest climb at the time. 3 pitches.
  • 1916 : Ivar Berg climbs, free solo, Cave Arête Indirect E1 5a (5.9+) about 60 feet, at Laddow Rocks, Derbyshire, England, the first E1.[19]
  • 1918 : Emanuel Strubich ascends, unprotected, Wilder Kopf, Westkante in Elbe Sandstone Mountains, VIIIa (5.10b), two pitches, world's hardest short climb at the time. Two protection rings added years later.[20]

1920s
  • 1920s – 1930s : Robert L. M. Underhill and Miriam Underhill (Miriam E. O'Brien), Early climbing couples; Robert introduced European climbing techniques in an article in the 1931 Bulletin of the Sierra Club.
  • 1921 : Oswald Kunis leads the totally unprotected Kuniskante VIIIa/VIIIb (5.10b/c) Rauschentorwächter, Elbensandstein Gebirge.
  • 1921 : Otto Herzog and Gustav Haber open Ha-He Dihedral UIAA VI+ (5.9+) Dreizinkenspitze, Austria, 1,000 Feet, in 2 days of climbing. Despite attempts, not repeated for three decades.
  • 1922 : Hans Rost leads, with 2 protection rings, the run-out Rostkante, on Hauptwiesenstein, Elbe Sandstone Mountains. First-ever 6b (5.10c), VIIIb.[20]
  • 1922 : Paul Illmer and party ascend the unprotected Illmerweg on Falkenstein, VIIc (5.10a), Elbe Sandstone Mountains
  • 1923 : Willo Welzenbach, adding to Dülfer's five grades, creates the Roman Numeral European rating system for rock climbs (Grades I to VI)[6] This system eventually became UIAA grading.
  • 1924 : Felix Simon and Roland Rossi climb Mt. Pelmo, North Face, Dolomites, Italy, UIAA VI-, 850 meters, placing 11 pitons.
  • 1925 : Fritz Wiessner, Roland Rossi climb Southeast Face of Fleischbank, Austria, UIAA VI+ (5.10a), 11 continuous pitches. 4 pitches at Grade VI, a tension traverse pitch, and an aid pitch over a roof.
  • 1925 : Emil Solleder and Fritz Wiessner climb Furchetta North Face, Dolomites, a 20-pitch route with some poor rock and two pitches of UIAA VI (5.9 X) near the top, 750 meters.
  • 1925 : Gustav Lettenbauer, Emil Solleder, climb Northwest Face of Civetta, Dolomites in a day, UIAA VI- (5.9 X), 1200 meters, 44 pitches, only 15 pitons for protection or belays.[6] World's hardest long rock climb.
  • 1925 : Albert Ellingwood and a party of three climb the 2,000-foot Northeast Buttress (5.7) of Crestone Needle (14,197 feet).
  • 1927 : Laurent Grivel designs and sells the first rock drill and expansion bolt.[6]
  • 1927 : Joe Stettner and brother, Paul, apply European techniques in the USA on their ascent of the 9-pitch Stettner Ledges (5.7) on the East Face of Long's Peak.[10][11]
  • 1927 : Fred Pigott's experiments with slinging natural chockstones and later machine nuts, for protection at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu on Snowdon, lead to modern climbing nut.[6]
  • 1929 : Luigi Micheluzzi, Demitrio Christomannos, Roberto Perathoner make, in 2 days and placing only 6 pitons, the first ascent of the South Pillar of Marmolada, 5.9+, 600-meters, Dolomites.[6][21]
  • 1929 : Miriam Underhill and Alice Damesme make the first "manless" ascent of the Aiguille du Grépon, Chamonix.

1930s
  • 1930 : Jack Longland leads, on sight, Javelin Blade E1 5b (5.10a X), Hollytree Wall, Idwal. Forty-foot runout at the crux on pitch two.
  • 1931 : Emilio Comici is the inventor of multi-step aid ladders, solid belay anchors, a trail/tag line, and hanging bivouacs. Pretty much the origin of big wall climbing and aid techniques. He uses them first on the longest rock climb, a 3-day, 57-pitch, 1500 meter, Dolomites route, mostly free (5.9+ with 3 aid sections, only 35 pitons) on Northwest Face of the Civetta.[6]
  • 1931 : Robert Underhill leads the first ascent of the North Ridge of Grand Teton, WY. About 1,500 ft. (5.7)
  • 1932 : Giovanni Vinatzer, Giuani Rifesser climb Furchetta North Face route, Dolomites, adding a continuous, dangerous, 5-pitch direct finish, UIAA VII- (5.10b/c X), only 5 new protection pitons. Not repeated for 20 years.
  • 1933 : Emilio Comici, Giuseppi Dimai, Angelo Dimai climb, in 3 days, mostly free using 70 pitons, the classic North Face of Cima Grande, Dolomites, 5.9 and three aid pitches. 1700 feet. World's most overhanging long route.
  • 1933 : Giovanni Vinatzer and Vincenzo Peristi climb the North Face of Stevia, Dolomites, UIAA VII- (5.10c), 6 pitches total with 3 cruxes, VII-, VI+, VI+.
  • 1934 : Pierre Allain champions bouldering at Fontainebleau; climbs L'Angle Allain (V2)
  • 1934 : Dick Leonard, teams up with Jules Eichorn and Bestor Robinson for the first ascent of the Eichorn Pinnacle of Cathedral Peak in the Sierra Nevada. He also creates the concept and practice of the dynamic belay at Indian Rock.[10]
  • 1934 : Raffaele Carlesso, Bartolo Sandri ascend, in 2 days, the South Face of Torre Trieste, Dolomites, 750 meters 35 pitches, UIAA VII- (5.10b/c) and a bit of aid, using only 45 pitons.
  • 1935 : Riccardo Cassin, Vittorio Ratti climb North Face of Cima Ovest, Dolomites, 5.9 and 3 aid pitches, 700 meters in 3 days, using 60 pitons, with its dangerous 80 meter traverse. Most committing Big Wall rock climb.
  • 1935 : Fritz Wiessner and Roger Whitney, using only 1 protection piton, climb Vector, 5.8+ R, Ragged Mountain CT, USA.[10] Probably the hardest pitch in USA for 10 years.
  • 1935 : Pierre Allain, adding a rubber rand to a tennis shoe to prevent side wear, makes a soft-soled, rubber climbing shoe. In 1947 with Edmond Bourdonneau (EB), he markets a stiffer, flat-soled, edging shoe, the PA.
  • 1936 : Giovanni Vinatzer and Ettore Castiglioni free climb, on excellent rock in two days, a 29-pitch route on the Marmolada, Dolomites, UIAA VII- (5.10c). Hardest long, totally-free climb in the world.
  • 1937 : Vitale Bramani creates, and starts selling, the first leather boots with lug-soled rubber (called tank-tread) for rock climbing, mountaineering and hiking, the Vibram sole.
  • 1937 : Emilio Comici re-climbs his route on Cima Grande alone, with some gear but no rope, mostly free (5.9) but pulling on some pitons, in three and a half hours.
  • 1938 : Riccardo Cassin, Gino Esposito, Ugo Tizzoni ascend, ground up in 3 days, the classic, alpine, 3,500-foot Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses "...perhaps the finest in existence" - Gaston Rebuffat.
  • 1939 : David Brower and the rest of his Berkeley crew use four bolts in the process of ascending Ship Rock in New Mexico.[10][11]

1940s
  • 1940s : World War II leads to the development of inexpensive, army-surplus pitons, carabiners and the newly invented nylon rope, making leader falls significantly safer.[6]
  • 1945 : Chris Preston, after a top rope ascent, leads, with no protection, the two pitches on Suicide Wall, E2 5c (5.10c X), Ogwen, Wales
  • 1946 : Mathias Rebitsch and Sepp Spiegl create an 8-pitch route on Fleischbank, Austria, UIAA VII (5.10d) with four hard pitches: VII, VII-, VI, VI-.
  • 1946 : Rene Ferlet climbs Marie-Rose (V3/V4) in Fontainebleau.
  • 1946 : John Salathe, at age of 46, attempts to rope-solo aid the first ascent of Lost Arrow Spire, one of the most exposed features in Yosemite Valley. (The protection bolt he placed on that attempt was the first, or one of the first, in the valley.) He is also known for the first re-usable, hardened-steel pitons, made from the axle of a Model A Ford.[10][11]
  • 1947 : Pierre Allain, in France, and Raffi Bedayn, in USA, market lightweight, aluminum carabiners for climbing, significantly reducing the weight carried by lead climbers.
  • 1947 : Mathias Rebitsch, Franz Lorenz open Nordverschneidung, 750-meters, 21 pitches, some poor rock, Laliderer Spitze, Austria. UIAA VII. Probably the world's hardest long free climb, several pitches of VII and VI+.
  • 1949 : Harold Goodro leads Goodro's Wall, 5.10c, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT, 80 feet. Hardest short climb in the USA.[10]
  • 1949 : Peter Harding leads the poorly-protected Demon Rib, E3 5c, after a top-rope ascent, 60 feet, Black Rocks, Derbyshire, UK.[22] Possibly the first 6b+.

1950s
  • 1950 : John Salathe and Allen Steck climb Steck-Salathe on Sentinel Rock, Yosemite, 5.8 A3, in a 5-day push. 16 pitches. Yosemite's longest wall climb.
  • 1951 : Joe Brown pioneers, wearing tennis shoes, Right Eliminate (E3 5c), Curbar Edge, UK, a poorly-protected off-width crack that is 50 feet long.[23] An onsight first ascent at about 6b+.
  • 1952 : Lionel Terray, Guido Magnone make the first ascent of Monte Fitzroy (11,020 feet), Patagonia, 16 pitches of Alpine rock climbing, 5.9 with some aid.
  • 1952 : Bonnie Prudden leads the first ascent of Bonnie's Roof, (5.8, A0) Shawangunks, NY. 2 pitches.
  • 1952 : John Streetly leads, onsight, the FA of Bloody Slab (E3 5b (5.10a X)) Llanberis Pass, Wales
  • 1952 : A Climber's Guide to Tahquitz Rock is published, laying out the beginnings of the Yosemite Decimal System.[24] Free climbs are rated from 5.0 to 5.9. Aid sections are now rated separately, from 6.0 to 6.9.
  • 1952 : Cesare Maestri makes the first free solo ascent of the 44-pitch Solleder Route on Civetta, Dolomites, UIAA VI- (5.9-).
  • 1952 : Joe Brown, threading pebbles for protection and wearing wool socks in wet conditions, leads Britain's most famous pitch, Cenotaph Corner, E1 5c (5.9 and one piton to rest) 140 ft.
  • 1952 : Harry Rost leads Talseite on Schwager, Elbe Sandstone, 50 meters, 2 protection rings. Even with shoulder stands at three cruxes, it is rated VIIIc (ca. 5.11a R/X).[25][26] Maybe the world's hardest short route. Soon climbed all free at IXa.
  • 1952 : Hermann Buhl, after riding his bike 100 miles from Austria, free solos the FFA of Piz Badile on the 8th ascent, UIAA VI+ (5.10a), 21 pitches in 5 hours, then rides back home.
  • 1953 : Robert Paragot climbs Le Joker (V5) Fontainebleau
  • 1953 : Edelrid Corp. invents the "Kernmantel" rope with an abrasion-protective outer sheath, making nylon ropes even safer.
  • 1954 : Joe Brown and Don Whillans climb the West Face of Aiguille de Blaitiere, 15 pitches including the famous Fissure Brown (5.10b R), in the Alps.
  • 1954 : Mark Powell, to supplement the Decimal System technical grade, adds a grade for route length/commitment in Yosemite, using Roman Numerals. Grade I (for 1 pitch climbs) to Grade VI ( for multi-day climbs).
  • 1955 : Walter Bonatti Considered one of the greatest climbs of all time, his solo, single-push, 1,000 meter first ascent of a new route (free and aid) on the Southwest Pillar of the Dru takes six days.
  • 1955 : John Gill introduces chalk & modern dynamics to bouldering; first V8 (1957), V9 (1959) These are the world's hardest boulder problems for nearly 20 years. [10][27][28]
  • 1956 : Wulf Schleffler leads, using a shoulder stand and 2 rings for protection, the run-out Nordwand on Rohnspitze, Elbensandstein Gebirge, VIIIc (ca. 5.11a).
  • 1957 : Walter Philipp, Dieter Flamm, in 2 days, climb Philipp-Flamm on Civetta, 3100 ft. UIAA VI+ (5.10b R) & a bit of aid. 44 pitons for belays. Only 43 pitons for protection in 40 pitches. Longest hard Alpine free climb.
  • 1957 : Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas, Mike Sherrick climb the NW Face of Half Dome, Yosemite, in a single push of 5 days. 25 pitches, 5.7 A3, 275 pitons and 20 direct aid bolts.[29]
  • 1958 : Herbert Richter leads Fledermausweg on Sommerwand, VIIIc (ca. 5.11a) Elbensandstein Gebirge, Germany.[25]
  • 1958 : Warren Harding and team climb the 3,000 foot Nose of El Capitan using siege tactics, taking a total of 45 days over an extended period. Almost entirely aid climbing with 600 pitons and many bolts (125), the climb is given worldwide recognition. 5.8 A3
  • 1958 : Don Whillans climbs, free solo, Goliath (E4 6a (ca. 5.11a)), Burbage, (now South Yorkshire), UK, a wide, overhung, 30-foot crack.[30]
  • 1959 : Royal Robbins and Tom Frost free climb Steck-Salathe route on Sentinel Rock, Yosemite, all except 30 feet. 16 pitches. Six pitches of 5.9 or 5.10a.[21] Most strenuous multi-pitch free climb in America.
  • 1959 : Ray Northcutt free climbs, after a couple tries, the 50-foot, Direct Start to Bastille Crack (5.10d) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.[31] This was the hardest, short free climb in North America at the time.[32]

1960s
  • 1960 : Dave Rearick and Bob Kamps make the first ascent of Diamond (5.8 A3), Longs Peak, CO, a 10-pitch, alpine, Big Wall climb all above 13,000 feet of altitude.
  • 1960 : Layton Kor, an outstanding Colorado climber, makes speedy, landmark first ascents, including the West Buttress of El Capitan (1963), Chief's Head (1961), Standing Rock (1962), and the Yellow Wall on Long's Peak (1962). Kor is one of the key forces behind the progression of climbing in the western USA.[10]
  • 1961 : Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, and Tom Frost, after fixing 9 pitches, ascend the 3,000-foot, Salathe Wall on El Capitan in a 6-day push (484 pitons, 13 bolts). 5.9 A4 Continuous ascent by Robbins & Frost in 1962.[33]
  • 1961 : Alan Austin free solos, after top rope ascents, the unprotected Wall of Horrors, E3 6a (5.11c) Almscliff Crag, UK, 60 feet.[34] A V3 boulder-problem to a 5.11 crux at mid-height.[35]
  • 1961 : John Gill makes the fairly dangerous, unrehearsed, free solo, first ascent of 9-metre high Thimble, South Dakota, USA. First-ever 7a+ (5.12a).[36][20]
  • 1962 : Barry Brewster free climbs, onsight, Vulcan (E4 6a, 5.11c) at Tremadoc, Wales, a former aid pitch with many pitons already in place (almost a Sport Climb).[35]
  • 1964 : Royal Robbins and Pat Ament free climb Athlete's Feat, Boulder CO. Five very short, hard pitches (5.11a. 5.10d, 5.10d, 5.10c, 5.9).[32] Most difficult multi-pitch in USA.
  • 1964 : Robbins, Pratt, Frost, and Yvon Chouinard climb, single push, the 28-pitch North American Wall on El Capitan,[33] 5.8 A5 Maybe the hardest aid climb in the world.
  • 1965 : Frank Sacherer and Eric Beck do the FFA of the Direct North Buttress, Middle Cathedral Rock, Yosemite, 5.10c, 17 pitches. One pitch of 5.10c and six pitches of 5.9. Hardest long free route in USA.
  • 1965 : Fritz Eske leads, resting briefly on slings, the strenuous Königshangel , IXa, 80 feet on Frienstein, Elbe Sandstone Mountains, first 6c (5.11a/b) in Germany.[20] Climbed all free today it is IXb (5.11d).
  • 1965 : Europe's biggest vertical rock face, Norway's Troll Wall, is climbed simultaneously by Norwegian and British teams. Not a race, but Norwegians summited the day before the Brits. Norwegian climbers, Leif Normann Eriksen, Ole Daniel Enersen, Odd Eliassen and Jon Teigland. The English, Bill Tweedale, John Ammatt and Tony Howard.
  • 1965 : Yvon Chouinard, T M Herbert ascend, in a single push, the 32-pitch Muir Wall on El Cap, 5.9 A5. First new El Cap route by a party of two.
  • 1965 : Chuck Pratt and Chris Fredericks climb the classic, 2-pitch, off-width Twilight Zone in Yosemite, 5.10d X.[29]
  • 1965 : Greg Lowe free climbs the USA's first roped 5.11c with his onsight ascent of Crack of Doom at City of Rocks, Idaho.[10]
  • 1967 : Pat Ament leads the FFA of Country Club Crack (5.11c) Boulder CO. First route in USA with two 5.11 pitches.
  • 1967 : August. Pete Cleveland climbs Superpin, 5.11a X, Black Hills , SD, USA.[10] 80 feet high. No protection after the first 30 feet. Most daring first ascent in USA. Unrepeated for many decades.
  • 1967 : October. John Stannard leads first free ascent of Foops, 7a (5.11d), Shawangunks, after several falls. Eight-foot horizontal roof a major mental breakthrough in world free climbing.[37][36]
  • 1967 : Joining the French boulderers and British free climbers, American free climbers begin to adopt the smooth-soled climbing shoe (PA, RD, EB, etc.), instead of the European kletterschuhe.
  • 1967 : July. Greg Lowe, Jeff Lowe do FFA of Macabre Roof, Ogden UT, five pitches (5.12c, 5.11d, 5.10d, and 2 easy). Not a consensus grade yet. Possibly first-ever 7b+ (5.12c).[20][10]
  • 1968 : Royal Robbins solos on aid the second ascent of Muir Wall on El Capitan,[33] and is forced to add an aid bolt at the crux. The first time El Cap is climbed alone. Nine days on the wall.
  • 1968 : Tom Proctor leads Our Father (E4 6b/5.12b), 60 feet, at Stoney Middleton, UK, after placing 2 protection pitons and a sling runner on rappel.[38][35] With a V5 start, possibly the first 7b.
  • 1968 : Reinhold Messner leads, on-sight, a 4-metre, crux slab on Central Pillar of Heiligkreuzkofel, 7 pitches. Hardest free pitch in the Alps. 7a (5.11d).[20][39]

1970s
  • 1970 : Bernd Arnold climbs, barefoot using 6 protection rings, the North face on the Schwager, 200 feet, in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, IXb (5.11d R).
  • 1970 : Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell ascend, ground up in 27 days, Wall of Early Morning Light, El Capitan, Yosemite. 28 pitches. 5.8 A5 with many bolts. Most days ever spent on a wall.
  • 1971 : Peter Haan leads, on sight, the FFA of the 3-pitch Left Side of the Hourglass, 5.11a X. Mark Klemens leads, on sight, the FA of the off-width Cream, 5.11a X, Yosemite.[29]
  • 1971 : Al Rouse climbs Positron (E5 6a / 5.11 A1) Gogarth, Anglesey.
  • 1971 : John Stannard starts the "Clean Climbing" movement in US with his publication Eastern Trade and "First All-Nut Ascent" logbook; In 1972, Doug Robinson uses term "Clean Climbing" in Chouinard Catalog.
  • 1972 : Jimmie Dunn creates the 25-pitch Cosmos, 5.9 A4. The first time a new El Capitan aid route is done solo. Charlie Porter solos Zodiac, 5.9 A4 later the same year.
  • 1973 : January 2. Jim Erickson establishes Cassandra roof crack, 5.11a/b free solo, on sight, 3 pitches, on Ralston Buttes, Colorado.[36] Perhaps the first multi-pitch, free solo at 5.11.
  • 1973 : John Bragg free climbs the 20-foot, Kansas City roof in the Shawangunks, 5.12b/c after some falls.[36][37] (Also, chalk use on roped climbs becomes more accepted, making routes a bit easier)
  • 1973 : Diana Hunter repeats, on-sight, Wide Country, pitch one, 5.11a/b, Eldorado Springs CO.[32] Hardest female free climb in USA.
  • 1973 : May. John Long leads, after placing protection on rappel, the FFA of the 15-foot roof, Paisano Overhang, 5.12d Tahquitz/Suicide CA. Perhaps the hardest off-width crack.
  • 1973 : Beverly Johnson and Sibylle Hechtel are the first female team to ascend El Capitan following the Triple Direct route, Yosemite.
  • 1973 : May. Henry Barber, after getting a little beta on the climb, free solos, on sight, Steck-Salathe route on Sentinel Rock, Yosemite 5.10a 16 pitches. First free solo of a big wall in the USA.
  • 1974 : Steve Wunsch leads Super Crack, Shawangunks, USA; considered first ever 7b+ (5.12c) (although Macabre Roof was re-graded).[20][36][37]
  • 1974 - 1977 : Jim Holloway establishes - in Colorado - the hardest bouldering problems in the world, at the time. These include Slapshot (V13) and Meathook (V11),[27][28]
  • 1975 : Steve Wunsch leads, after much work, the FFA of Psycho roof, 5.12d, Eldorado Canyon, CO. Usually considered the first-ever pitch of 7c.[20]
  • 1975 : David Breashears creates Perilous Journey, 5.11b/c X, on Eldorado Mountain, CO. On sight, 100 feet, no protection.[32] Perhaps the boldest, short, First Ascent of the 70s.
  • 1975 : Charlie Porter aid solos the remote, Big Wall, Northwest Face Mount Asgard, Baffin Island, 40 pitches, 5.10 A4. Alone for 9 days climbing and 41 more days carrying loads in and out. The most committing Big Wall climb.
  • 1975 : Ron Kauk, John Bachar, John Long, lead free (following on aid) all 12 pitches on Astro Man, (5.11c) Yosemite. First continuous free ascent by Kauk in June 1977[40]
  • 1976 : Art Higbee, Jim Erickson, both free climb all the 25-pitch NW Face Half Dome, Yosemite 5.12d then (newer variations are 5.12a), leading all but the final 10 ft.[41] 3 pitches of 5.12, 5 of 5.11.[42]
  • 1976 : Mick Fowler leads, after rehearsal, FFA of Linden, Curbar Edge, UK. E6 6b (5.12a X) 60 ft.
  • 1976 : Ron Fawcett free solos Slip 'n' Slide E6 6a (5.11c X) 35ft., Crookrise, UK
  • 1977 : Helmut Kiene, Reinhard Karl make the first ascent of a 10-pitch climb with off-width crux, Pumpriße, Austria. Officially, the first UIAA Grade VII (5.10d/5.11a). Nuts for protection.
  • 1977 : Dale Bard, John Lakey, lead the Owl Roof, 5.12d, 2 pitches, after several tries. Yosemite's hardest off-width crack.
  • 1977 : Ray Jardine climbs Phoenix (5.13a), after chiseling a couple holds at the start and ten days of work, in Yosemite Valley. First ever 7c+ (5.13a).[20]
  • 1977 : Barbara Devine redpoints the route Kansas City (5.12b/c), Shawangunks,USA. First female redpoint at 7b.[10]
  • 1978 : Jim Collins, after 4 roped ascents, free solos the classic, 8-pitch Colorado free climb, Naked Edge, (5.11a, 5.10c, 5.9, 5.11b, 5.11b and 3 easy pitches).
  • 1978 : Ray Jardine sells first modern spring-loaded camming device (SLCD or cam), which he invented years earlier, making routes safer, particularly traditional climbing crack climbs.
  • 1978 : John Long leads the FFA of The Hangover Tahquitz Rock CA, 5.13a, after a few tries. Probably the first 5.13 that was not chiseled.
  • 1978 : Dave Diegelman, Dale Bard, Jim Bridwell climb Sea of Dreams on El Cap, Yosemite, 5.9 A5 in 10 days. 27 pitches, only 39 drilled holes. Probably the world's hardest aid route.
  • 1979 : Tony Yaniro leads the FFA of Grand Illusion, Sugarloaf (CA), after pre-placing pieces of protection. First-ever 8a (5.13b)[10][20]
  • 1979 : Lynn Hill leads Ophir Broke, 5.12c/d, Telluride, CO, the most difficult first ascent ever led by a female.
  • 1979 : John Bachar after rehearsals, does the first free solo of the 3-pitch "Nabisco Wall" via Butterballs (5.10c, 5.11c, 5.11a) Yosemite.

1980s

1990s

2000s

2010s

2020s

See also

References
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