Durumagi

Durumagi is a variety of po, or overcoat in hanbok, the Korean traditional garment. It is a form of outwear which is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing; that is it worn over jeogori (jacket) and baji (pants).[1]: 120  Durumagi means "closed all around", and is also known as jumagui (주막의, 周莫衣), juchaui (주차의, 周遮衣) or juui (주의, 周衣). Durumagi is worn not only to fend off the cold, but also for ceremonial purposes.[2]

Durumagi
Hangul
두
Hanja
周莫衣· 周遮衣· 周衣
Revised RomanizationDurumagi / Jumagui / Juchaui / Juui
McCune–ReischauerTurumagi / Chumagi / Chuch'ai / Chui

History

The origin of durumagi traces back to at least the Three Kingdoms of Korea, where it originates from a long coat worn by the northern Chinese to fend off cold weather in ancient times,[3][4][5][6] such form of clothing is called Zhiju (直裾), developed since Shang dynasty. Two examples of Zhiju can be found in Mawangdui (马王堆) BC 206–24 and Mashanchumu (马山楚墓) BC 770–476.[7][8] The ancient durumagi was adopted and worn by the upper class in various forms for ceremonies and rituals.[3] Originally, the ancient durumagi was mid-calf in length and had jeogori-like bindings; it was then the modified form which was introduced to the general population and came to be known as the durumagi.[3] Mongolian influence during the Goryeo period caused changes in its appearance.[9] Not only was the waist belt changed into a goreum, the traditional po's short length and wide sleeves were lengthened and narrowed to the style of the Mongolian coat xurumakci, of which the name durumagi is said to be derived.[10]

During the Joseon Dynasty, the durumagi was less worn as an overcoat but more of a housecoat for the noble class, whereas it was worn outdoors by the commoners. In 1884, King Gojong promulgated the unification of clothing for all social classes through reform laws.[11] However, this law was met with much resistance and it was only until ten years later, after the Gabo Reform of 1894, that the durumagi became common as formal attire.[9]

Construction and design

The durumagi is an overcoat, which is closed all around,[2] lacking side and back vents.[1]: 120  It has a straight collar with front overlapping front panels closing to the right, side gores, chest ties, neckband and narrow sleeves; its length is about under the calves and above the ankles.[1]: 120 

Different fabrics and materials are used in making durumagi: calico, wool, cotton, and various silks for winter; ramie, fine ramie and silk gauze for summer; various silks and calico for spring and autumn.[2] White, grey and navy blue are commonly used.[12]

Types of durumagi
Blue durumagi worn by female model, white durumagi worn by male model

Various types include hotedan durumagi (홑단 두루마기, single layer), gyup durumagi (겹두루마기, double layer), som durumagi (솜두루마기, cotton), and kkachi durumagi (까치두루마기, magpie) or obangjang durumagi (오방장 두루마기, five colors) for children.[13]

Modern use
2005 APEC World leaders in durumagi

The 'durumagi' is still considered an important part of traditional attire for formal occasions,[14] but a variety of colors and designs are being used. Colorful durumagis were given as gifts to the world leaders of the 2005 APEC Summit in Busan.[15]

See also

References
  1. Encyclopedia of Traditional Korean clothing. Vol. VI (English ed.). Seoul: National Folk Museum of Korea. 2021. ISBN 9788928902873.
  2. "두루마기" [Durumagi]. Doosan Encyclopedia (in Korean). Archived from the original on 21 March 2022. Retrieved 21 March 2022.
  3. Lee, Samuel Songhoon (2013). Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition. Seoul Selection. pp. 13–14. ISBN 9781624120565. Retrieved 2 February 2021.
  4. Wang, Bo (961). 唐会要 新罗 TangHuiYao – Silla. Retrieved 6 February 2021.
  5. Wei, Shou (551–554). 魏书 百济 Book of Wei – Baekje. Retrieved 6 February 2021.
  6. Wang, Qinruo (1013). 冊府元龜 Cefu Yuangui-chapter 936&975. Retrieved 5 February 2021.
  7. "3.3.1 直裾长衣". Hunan Provincial Museum. Retrieved 5 February 2021.
  8. 长沙马王堆一号汉墓发掘简报. Institute of Archaeology, Chinese Academy of Social Sciences. 1 July 1972. Retrieved 5 February 2021.
  9. (in Korean) Durumagi Archived 10 June 2011 at the Wayback Machine at Nate Encyclopedia
  10. Lee Yi Hwa (이이화), Korean History 7 – the Mongolian Invasion and the 30 Years War (한국사 이야기 7 – 몽골의 침략과 30년 항쟁), 1999, p.58 Hangilsa, Paju. ISBN 89-356-5146-X
  11. (in Korean)Gapsin Clothing Reform at Doosan Encyclopedia
  12. (in Korean) New hanbok, Herald Biz 2010-03-30. Retrieved 14 June 2010
  13. (in Korean) Obangjang durumagi from Daum Communications and Korea Culture & Content Agency
  14. (in Korean) Durumagi a must, bnt news 14 February 2010
  15. (in Korean) Leaders in durumagi, Nocut News 25 November 2005
This article is issued from Wikipedia. The text is licensed under Creative Commons - Attribution - Sharealike. Additional terms may apply for the media files.