Kashmiri cuisine
Kashmiri cuisine is the cuisine of the Kashmir Valley in the Indian subcontinent. Rice is the staple food of Kashmiris and has been so since ancient times.[3] Meat along with rice, some vegetables and salad are prepared on special occasions like Eid.[4] Kashmiris consume meat voraciously.[5] According to official data, around 2.2 million sheep are slaughtered in Kashmir every year on an average adding up to a whopping 21,000 tonnes annual meat consumption in the region.[6] Despite being Brahmin, most Kashmiri Pandits are meat eaters.[7]
The main daily staple food of the Muslims of Kashmir is plain cooked rice. They are typically not vegetarian, with very few exceptions. Meat stock is a salient ingredient even for so-called 'vegetarian' dishes.[8] A joke shared is: 'Find me a Kashmiri vegetarian and I will give you a pot of gold.' [8] However they often eat vegetable curries, with meat being an expensive indulgence.[9] The cooking methods of vegetables, mutton, homemade cheese (paneer), and legumes are somewhat similar to those of Kashmiri Pandits, except in the use of onions, garlic and shallots by Muslims in place of asafoetida.[9]
In Muslim cuisine, spices are less used as compared to that in Pandit dishes. This is attributed to the fact that Muslims were general populations of varying castes and affluence levels. Cockscomb flower, called "moaval" in Kashmiri, is boiled to prepare a red food colouring, as used in certain dishes. Pandits use the mildly pungent Kashmiri red chili powder as a spice, as well as to impart colour to certain dishes. Muslims use chilies in moderate quantity, and avoid hot dishes at large meals.[9]
There is also a notable difference in the mode of service and eating between Pandits and Muslims, especially in the case of feasts. Amongst Muslims usually four persons eat together, in one big tinned copper platter, called a "traem" in Kashmiri; this is a round vessel of around 45 centimetres (18 in) diameter, typically beautifully embossed.
History of Kashmiri cuisine
The range of tools recovered at the Neolithic site of Burzahom, in the district of Srinagar shows the men were skilled hunters with knowledge of implements for cultivation.[10] Stone hearths have been found at ground levels, near the mouth of pits.[10] The Period II (Ceramic Neolithic) structures show a dish with a hollow stand and a globular pot.[10] Rectangular harvesters with a curved cutting edge have also been recovered.[10] Presence of harpoons indicates fishing.[11] The art-producing behaviour of Neolithic men is witnessed in a hunting scene, with human, a dog and a sun path diagram.[10]
Even before the Megalithic culture that followed the Neolithic period, there is evidence of wheat, barley and lentil cultivation.[10] The presence of lentil explains that the people of Burzahom had wide contacts with Central Asia.[10]
At the Gufkral Neolithic site 41 km southwest of Srinagar, archaeologists have confirmed settlers were engaged in wild game as well as domestication of animals.[12] The animals that were known at the time were wild sheep, wild goat, wild cattle, red deer, wolf, Himalayan Ibex and bear.[12] In the Phase IB of Neolithic occupation, some new additions included cattle and common peas.[11]
On the basis of the presence of the Emmer wheat (Triticumdicoccum) crop at Kanispur, seven kilometres east of Baramulla, contacts of Harappans with the Neolithic Kashmir has been suggested.[11]
Foods mentioned in ancient Kashmiri scriptures/chronicles/travellers' accounts include:[13][14][15]
- Rice, which could be imported from other countries in times of famine.[16][17]
- Pilau, yellow pilau, black pilau, shola pilau etc.[18]
- Milk.[16]
- Butter.[19]
- Fruits.[20] (Apple, Pear, Peach, Apricot, Cherry, Mulberry,[21][22] Walnut, Melon, Water Melon,[23] Greengage, Gooseberry, Currants, Raspberry, Strawberry,[24] Sour Cherry[25]).
- Musk-Melons, by the permission of Akbar, the crop was imported from Kashmir in the later season.[26]
- Vegetables (Red Beet, Water Parsnips, Radishes[27])
- Raw Flesh.[28]
- Meat cooked in yoghurt.[29]
- Ducks[24]
- Pigeons.[30]
- Beef.[31]
- Chicken Soup (shurba literally meaning saltish water, ba is the reverse of aab meaning water).[32]
- Dog's flesh, cooked by people of Dom origin.[33]
- Handu sheep, delicate and sweet in flavour and wholesome.[19]
- Stags, chased down the Wular lake.[34]
- Fish Soup, eaten to keep up vigour by men addicted to women.[35]
- Trout[24]
- Danube Salmon.[24]
- Fowls.[24]
- Honey.[28]
- Boiled Eggs, the eggs were brought from Gilgit and Little Tibet (Ladakh) where they were procured in greater abundance.[36][26]
- Pircham, an omelette-like preparation.[37]
- Masura, a sort of lentil.[38]
- Samudga, moong dal. Feeding only on rice and samudga was known to be miserly.[39]
- Pulses[28] (including Peas and Broad Beans[24]).
- Rice boiled in milk.[28]
- Sugar-cane.[28]
- Grapes, which were rare even in Heaven, according to Kalhana.[28][40] Of husaini and fakhri varieties from Khorasan.[18]
- Garlic, several Brahmanas who used to eat it were expelled, according to Kalhana.[41]
- Pomegranates.[28]
- Holy Basil.[28]
- Salt.[28]
- Saffron, historians suggest Persian saffron corms were transplanted to Kashmiri soil after Persia conquered Kashmir. The first harvest occurred sometime prior to 500 BC.[28][42]
- Clarified Butter.[28]
- Oil.[28]
- Gold Dust.[43]
- Curd.[28]
- Half ripe Barley.[28]
- Spring Water, of Kokar Nag was said to appease hunger and renew appetite.[44] A fountain in the neighbourhood of Achh Dal was scarcely equalled for its coldness, limpidity and refreshing qualities.[45]
- Beer.[25]
- Wine, one Kashmiri king was so intoxicated with wine he told his ministers that if they wished to increase the beauty of his city, they should burn Pravarapura, the city built by king Sri Pravarasena of the Alchon Huns and his orders could not be disobeyed.[46]
- Maireya Wine, a spicy wine perfumed by camphor,[47] and made out of fruits and flowers with a natural sugar base.[48]
- Asava Wine, decocted extracts or cold infusion extracts of different herbs fermented with flowers of dhataki (woodfordia fruticosa).[49][50]
- New Wine.[28]
- Sweet wine (like Madeira).[22]
- Flour cakes, fine flour could become expensive.[28][51]
- Spirit from Grapes[22]
- Sesame.[28]
- Ginger.[28]
- Coarse sugar.[28]
- Meat cakes.[28]
- Fish.[28]
- Dried food.[28]
- Ira-flowers(drink).[28]
- Green vegetables[28]
Ingredients
From the mythical Mahabharata to the Iranian invasion of Kashmir (which was a part of Gandhara) by Darius in 516 BC,[52] to the Mauryans who established Srinagara to the Gupta Empire to the invasion of Kashmir by Timur in 1398,[53][54] the culture and cuisine of Kashmiris are linked to the greater Indian, Persian and Central Asian[55] cuisines mixed with local innovations and availabilities of ingredients.[56] The term kabab is Arabic in origin, korma has Turkish roots, and rogan josh, yakhaen, ab gosht, rista and goshtaba stem from Persian sources.[57] Apart from chicken, fish and game, Kashmiris use only mutton (meat of mature sheep) or goat's meat.[9] More than 75% of sheep population are cross breeds and are generally called Kashmir Merino that provides the dual purpose of meat and wool.[58] Beef is consumed in towns and villages of Kashmir more so for its affordability.[59]
The most important and frequently used Kashmiri eatables are: haakh (collard greens or kale), monj Haak (knol khol), tsochael(mallow), bamchoont (quince), kral mound (shepherds purse), saze posh (holly hock), nadur (lotus stem), praan (shallots), aubuj (sorrel), mawal (cockscomb), wushkofur (camphor), tila gogul (mustard) and gor (water-chestnut).[60] The floating vegetable garden on the Dal Lake is the second largest wholesale market in the world.[61] The items for sale include tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers, turnips, water chestnuts, leafy vegetables, and the famous nadur.[61] Local accounts date the discovery of nadur to the 15th-century sultan Zain-ul-Abidin, who was introduced to the chewy delicacy while on a shikara ride on the Gil Sar lake located in the exteriors of Srinagar.[62]
Kashmiri saffron is known for its aroma, colour, and medicinal value.[63] The saffron of Pampore town is considered to be of superior quality with 8.72% crocin content as compared to the Iranian variety which contains 6.82%.[63] In May 2020, Kashmiri saffron was given a geographical indication tag.[63] The spice shahi zeera or imperial cumin or black cumin belongs to Apiaceae (parsley) family and was initially available in the jungles of Gurez Valley.[64] These darker seeds unlike the regular brown zeera are of superior quality because of their smell, relative rarity and shape.[64]
Kashmiri apple is famous for its juiciness and distinct flavour as well.[65] In 2019 alone, Kashmir produced over 1.9 million metric tonnes of apples, the highest among Indian states.[65] Further, Kashmir accounts for 90% of India's walnut production.[66] Kashmiri walnuts are a great source of nutrients and widely in demand across the globe.[66]
Mishri variety of cherry is famous in Kashmir and sweeter than other varieties.[67] They are loaded with minerals, vitamins and plant compounds.[67]
A traditionally ripened Himalayan cheese is called the milk chapati or maish krej in Kashmiri.[68]
Among the spices used:
- Kashmiri chilli pepper (martswangun)
- asafoetida (yangu)
- cardamom (nich auleh)
- bay leaf (tej pata)
- black pepper (marts)
- cinnamon (dalcyn)
- cloves (rong)
- fennel (bodiyana)
- ginger (shaunth)
- tamarind (tambar)
- turmeric powder (lader)
- saffron (kong posh)
- cumin seeds (safed ziur)[9]
- caraway seeds (krihun ziur)[9]
- coriander seeds (danival)[9]
- nigella seeds (siyah dana)[9]
- fenugreek seeds (bresta)[9]
- dry fenugreek leaves (hoechh mith)[9]
- nutmeg (zafal)[9]
- mace (jalvatier)[9]
- soda bi-carb (phul)[9]
- shelled seeds of cucumber, musk melon, water melon and pumpkin (char magz)[9]
- dry crushed mint leaves (hoekh pudana)[9]
- dry garlic (rohan)[9]
- dry shallots (pran)[9]
- vari masala cakes, a quick flavouring agent for many dishes.[9]
Kashmiri cuisine
Some noted Kashmiri dishes include:
Barbecue
One version of the origin of kababs is the one in which Turkish soldiers were first known to grill chunks of meat on open fires.[69] Kashmir's kababs are cooked with local spices and accompanied with dips:[69]
- Kabab, condimented minced meat, roasted or fried, on skewers.[9]
- Lahradar Kabab, also known as Lahabi/Moachi kabab. Minced mutton classically shaped like a boat with a depression in the centre, cooked in curd based mild spicy gravy.[70][71]
- Shammi Kabab, wazwan style mutton patties with ground chickpeas, egg and mild Kashmiri spices.[70][72]
- Nadur Maund, Kashmir's answer to hash browns, lotus root ginger and mint patties with a dash of eclectic Kashmiri spices.[73][74]
- Buzith Tschaman, grilled paneer, it is said a poet wandering in the lovely forests of Kashmir, cooked this dish out in the open.[75][76]
- Buzith Hedar, nicely marinated grilled mushrooms.[75]
- Buzith Gaad, charcoal grilled fish marinated with Kashmiri spices.[77]
- Buzith Olav, Thool, Maaz etc...., the round oven-baked clay-pot kangir works as an oven for baking food-items such as eggs, potatoes, pea beans, chunks of meat etc.[78][79]
- Talith Gaad, fish marinated in black pepper, cumin and Kashmiri chilli and then shallow-fried.[80]
- Talith Kokur, Fried chicken.
- Chicken/Mutton/Beef Tujji, meat marinated in Kashmiri red chillies and aniseed powder, barbequed to perfection.[81][82][9] The steel rods called seekh are held over an iron grill and roasted over red-hot embers called baath-e-czini.[83] Served with chutney, over special Kashmiri bread called lavas.[83]
- Gaad Tujji, fish kababs.
- Tschaman Tujji, Kashmiri style marinated cottage cheese chunks barbecued on a skewer and served with a side of chutney.[72]
- Tchaap Maaz, sausages.[84]
- Kaleeng, thick membrane that covers sheep's head,skull and all, chopped coarsely and set to cook with spices and minimal liquid over a low fire for hours.[85]
Breakfast
For the average Kashmiri, breakfast normally means fresh bread from the local bakery and a cup of noon chai (salt tea).[86] Some affordable luxuries include:
Wazwan Dishes
Unlike most dishes of the Indian subcontinent where the flavour is added to the food while cooking on the flames, the wazwan flavours are added while the dish is still uncooked by adding flavoured water to the preparation or soaking in flavoured water (osmosis):[88]
- Tabakhmaaz, rib racks in ghee with sweet fat lodged between lacquered slips of meat[89] Kashmiri Hindus commonly refer to this dish as Qabargah. While Qabargah is simmered on a low heat for a longer duration and then fried very quickly, Tabakhmaaz is boiled with salt and garlic and characterised by a slightly elastic texture.[90][91]
- Tang ta Lahabi Kabab, whole Kashmiri pears & mutton kababs that often go with a tomato-yoghurt gravy.[92]
- Waaza Kokur, whole chicken cooked in saffron gravy with mild Kashmiri spices.[70]
- Safed Kokur, chicken with white sauce.[93]
- Dani Phoul, mutton shank.
- Aab Gosh, also known as Dodhe Maaz. A famous milk-based curry cooked in spices and ghee over a low flame.[94]
- Methi Maaz, mutton intestines flavoured with a spice mixture containing dried fenugreek (methi) leaves.[95]
- Waazeh Hedar, Kashmiri wazwan-style mushrooms.
- Marchwangan Kormeh, meat cooked with spices and yogurt and mostly using Kashmiri red chillies and hot in taste.
- Kokur Marchawangan Kormeh, Chicken cooked in red hot chilly gravy.[70]
- Aloobukhar Kormeh, Mince cooked with dried plums.[70]
- Badam Kormeh, Tender mutton pieces cooked in creamy almond gravy[96]..
- Danival Kormeh Lamb cooked with coriander or parsley.
- Kokur Danival Kormeh, Chicken cooked in curd based gravy, flavoured with saffron and fresh coriander.[70]
Soups
Soups are often given to new mothers:
Domestic Meat Stews
- Qaliya, a mutton delicacy in which all flavours are included, excluding red chilly powder.[99]
- Shab Deg: dish cooked with turnip and meat/ duck[100]/ chicken/ beef [101] and balls of ground meat,[102] left to simmer overnight.[103]
- Matschgand, lamb meatballs in a gravy tempered with red chillies.
- Maaz Vangun, Aubergine with meat.[104]
- Syun Oluv, mutton preparation made with potato and cooked with hing and spices.[105]
- Kokur Aloobukhar Korma, Chicken cooked with dried plums with Kashmiri ingredients.[70]
- Palak ta Kokur, spinach with country chicken.[106][107]
- Gand ta Kokur, chicken & onion curry.
- Bam Chunth Ta Maaz, quince with lamb.[108]
- Gogjee-aare Ta Maaz, sundried Turnips with Lamb.[108]
- Gaazar Ta Maaz, carrots and mutton.[109]
- Bote-Tser Maaz, Lamb and dried apricots.[110]
- Tser Kofta, Minced mutton balls with an apricot inside.[96]
- Haand Ta Kokur, dandelion Greens & Chicken.[111]
- Ruwangun Shimla Mirch Kokur, tomato capsicum and chicken curry.[112]
- Haak Maaz, Kashmiri saag cooked with mutton.[70] (Meat is called 'Neni' by Pandits and 'Maaz' by Muslims in Kashmir).[9]
- Rogan Josh, a lamb based dish, cooked in a gravy seasoned with liberal amounts of Kashmiri chillies (in the form of a dry powder), ginger (also powdered), garlic, onions or asafoetida , gravy is mainly Kashmiri spices and mustard oil based.
- Kokur Roghan Josh, Fried chicken cooked in cock's comb flower gravy with Kashmiri condiments.[70]
- Hindi Roghan Josh, Roghan Josh with tamarind.
- Vunth Roghan Josh, for the past two decades, camel meat is sold on the occasion of Eid-ul-Azha in keeping with the tradition of the Prophet Mohammad who mostly used to sacrifice camels on holy occasions.[113][114]
- Yakhein, a yoghurt-based mutton gravy without turmeric or chilli powder. The dish is primarily flavoured with bay leaves, cloves and cardamom seeds. This is a mild, subtle dish eaten with rice often accompanied with a more spicy side dish.
- Kokur Yakhein, Succulent pieces of chicken cooked in curd flavoured in Kashmiri herbs.[70]
- Chuste, spicy dry curry of goat's intestines.[115][116]
- Naihkala Ta Phendeir Yakhean, Certain parts of Innard of Sheep or Goat, cooked with Curd.[9]
- Chhagael Yakhean, Testes of Sheep or Goat cooked in Curd etc.[9]
- Damin Yakhean, Tripe Yakhni (curd curry).[117]
- Shyaem, Minced Mutton Cutlets cooked with Curd.[9]
- Bokavachi Chhagael, Kidneys and Testes of Goat or Sheep.[9]
- Charvan, cooked diced liver of sheep or goat.[9]
- Choek Charvan, sour diced liver of goat or sheep.[9]
- Charvan Oluv, curried liver and potatoes.[118]
- Kalle Maaz, goat's head meat.[119]
- Pachi Ta Heri Ras, Cooked Legs with Hoofs, and Head of Sheep or Goat.[9]
Meatballs
The wazas are trained for years to learn the art of making the right cuts and grounding the meat to perfection:[120]
- Goshtabeh[121] minced mutton balls with spices in yogurt gravy. Also known as The Dish of Kings in Kashmir region and the last dish of the banquet.[122]
- Riste, meatballs in curry. The meat is derived from either sheep or goat and then pounded very carefully on a wooden block.[123] The perfect meatballs are achieved through maintaining the right temperature throughout the pounding process and laced with kidney fat.[123]
- Beef Riste/Goshtabeh.[124]
- Palak Rista, usually four small 'rista' pieces, along with some spinach Leaves, are ladled on a 'Traem' for four guests.[9]
- Safed Rista, Goshtabeh meatballs are the biggest, next rista and palak rista meatballs are the tiniest.[125]
Vegetarian Sides
- Dum Olav/Dum Aloo: cooked with ginger powder, fennel and other hot spices.
- Wazel Aelwa, forgotten aloo recipe mostly cooked in the villages.
- Matar Olav, potatoes peas curry. A classic side dish that is regularly paired with white rice (batta).[126]
- Tamatar Vangan, Kashmiri eggplant in Tomatoes.[127]
- Band Gupi Ta Tamatar, cabbage cooked with tomatoes.[128]
- Nadir Palak, lotus roots and spinach. This is a side dish served in big feasts and dinners.[9]
- Ranith Bam Chunth, cooked quince.[9]
- Bam Chunth Vangun, quince & eggplants.[129]
- Karale Ta Vangun, Kashmiri Karela Baingan (Bitter Gourd & Eggplants).[130]
- Chounth Vangun, green apple curry.[131]
- Choek Vangun, a popular dish of eggplant fried and cooked with tamarind.[132]
- Choek Vangun-Hachi, sundried eggplant instead of the fresh vegetable.
- Hoch Haand, Dried dandelion greens, boiled and ground to a pasty texture.[133]
- Ruwangun Hachi, Dried tomatoes.[134]
- Barith Marchawangan, Kashmiri stuffed chillies.[135]
- Phak'e Olav, mid-day snack of potatoes fried in mustard oil, on few monthly Pandit fasts such as poornima and ashtami.[136]
- Monje Haakh, kholrabi being a delicacy.
- Dum Monje, Knol Khol (Karam/Gaanth Gobhi/Kohlrabi/ German Turnip) in Yoghurt.[137]
- Dum Phul Gupi, cauliflowers cooked in their own moisture.[9]
- Haakh, Wosteh Haakh (red orach), Heanz Haakh, Sotchal (mallow), Kretch (knapweed), Handh (dandelion), Obuj (sorrel), Lissa (amaranth), Nuner (purslane),[138] among others; collard greens is enjoyed by Kashmiri people and they have their own versions of cooking the same with cottage cheese, mutton or chicken.
- Bhat Haakh, also known as Sabz Haakh. Bhat is Kashmiri for Pandit. Haakh is eaten by everyone in Kashmir, but is a Kashmiri Pandit specialty.[139]
- Dagith Haakh, mashed collard greens.
- Wapal Haakh, teasel leaves (Dipsacus Inermis).[140]
- Wosteh Haakh Ta Zombre Thool, orach paired with hard-boiled eggs.[141]
- Haakh Nadir, collards or kales cooked with lotus roots.[9]
- Haakh Ta Olav, potatoes and greens.[142]
- Sotchal Nadur, mallow is a wild vegetable found anywhere on the roadsides, parks, playgrounds, grazing lands, etc.[143]
- Sotchal Wangun, mallow leaves & baigan.[144]
- Olav Bum, a delicious dry dish prepared with potatoes and water lily plant commonly found in ponds and lakes of Kashmir.[145][146]
- Al Roghan Josh, Pumpkin Roghan Josh.[147]
- Bandh Roghan Josh, cabbage simmered in a fusion of authentic spices, and yoghurt to create the signature vegetarian 'sibling' of Roghan Josh.[148]
- Gogjee Nadur, Lotus stem with Turnips.[149]
- Cshte Gogjee, turnips.[150]
- Cshte Muji, boiled and mildly spiced radishes.[9]
- Cshte Band Gupi, boiled and mildly spiced cabbage (with asafoetida).[9]
- Choek Nadur, Lotus-root with Tartaric acid (tatri).[151]
- Al-Yakhean, Bottle-Gourd cooked in yoghurt based gravy and flavoured with Kashmiri condiments.[70]
- Phool Yakhean, Cauliflower in Yogurt sauce.[152]
- Hedar Yakhean, mushrooms yakhni.
- Kanaguchhi Yakhean, Morels cooked in rich yoghurt gravy.[153]
- Nadir Yakhean, lotus root cooked with yoghurt.[9]
- Nutree Yakhean, soya chunks yakhni.
- Shajkaan, aka Kanpapar (Geopora Arenicola) mushroom, fried with onions and tomatoes, or even prepared with milk.[154]
Tschaman (Cottage Cheese)
- Tschaman Kanti, cubes of cottage cheese that are fried, tossed in select spices and stir fried with onions and tomatoes.[155]
- Lyader Tschaman. lyadur means yellow which is due to the presence of turmeric, and tschaman is cottage cheese.[156]
- Veth Tschaman.
- Ruwangan Tschaman, cottage cheese in tomato gravy.
- Palak/Haak Tschaman, cottage cheese prepared in spinach based gravy peppered with Kashmiri ingredients.[70]
- Mith Tschaman, panir with fenugreek.[9]
- Mith Tschaman Ta Niul Kara, panir and fenugreek with green peas.[9]
- Matar Tschaman, turmeric matar paneer. Traditionally, the paneer is meant to be deep fried.[157]
- Kanaguchhi Tschaman, Kashmiri morels with paneer in a tangy gravy.[158]
- Gogjee-aare Ta Tschaman, dried turnips with cottage cheese.[102]
- Tschaman Vangan, panir and brinjals.[9]
Chutneys/Raitas
Called the shadowy underbelly of the Kashmiri wazwan,[159] they add real colour to the dishes:[159]
- Zamut Dodh, plain homemade yoghurt.[72]
- Muj Chetein, translates to radish in yoghurt. A unique blend of grated radish and yoghurt, seasoned with a pinch of roasted cumin. The Kashmiri version of the quintessential raita.[160]
- Doon Chetein, walnut chutney. Made with walnuts, yoghurt, dried mint, green chillies, red chilli powder and fresh coriander.[123]
- Doon Muj Chetein, Walnut-Radish Raita.[161]
- Zeresht Chetein, Barberry.[138]
- Anardan Chetein, prepared with dried pomegranate seeds (called anardana) along with coriander and mint leaves.[162][163]
- Gand Chetein, Kashmiri onion chutney. Made with sliced onions which are soaked in vinegar and flavoured with dried mint leaves and red chilli powder.[164][123]
- Zirish Chetein. Blackcurrants.
- Aelchi Chetein, sour cherries with a bit of salt.[165]
- Pudna Chetein/Buran, a light chutney made out of green chillies and fresh mint.[72]
- Ruwangun Chetein, tomatoes sautéed with green chillies and oil, till most of their juices evaporate.[166]
- Kishmish Chetein, condimented sauce of raisins.
- Aloo Bukhar Chetein, made with fresh plums, onions, sugar, lime juice and spices.[167]
- Muj Chetein (variation), sautéed grated radish in mustard oil.[168][169]
- Buza/Foata Vangan, roasted/boiled and mashed brinjals mixed with curd.[9]
- Dodh Al/Al Raita, bottle Gourd in yoghurt.[170][171]
Meat Stir-Fries
- Mutton/Chicken Kanti, small boneless mutton/chicken pieces, marinated, shallow fried in fresh onions, tomatoes and green chillies.[70]
- Kabab Kanti, Kababs cooked with green chillies, tomatoes and onions.[75]
- Matar Machh, Green Peas and Minced Mutton.[9]
- Sotchal Charvan, mallow leaves & liver.
- Hedar, Chhagael, Bokavachi, Ta Krehnamaz, mushrooms with testes, kidneys and liver of sheep or goat.[9]
- Talith Kaed, Fried Brains of Goat or Sheep.[9]
- Kaed Pakora, Brain Fritters.[9]
Fish
Kashmir is full of fresh water lakes and rivers:[172]
- Nader ti Gaad, fish (Bilose, Zob,[173] Indian Major Carp, Catla, Rohu, Margarita, Mahseer,[174] Snow Trout, Niger, Chush, Khront, Churu etc.[175]) cooked with lotus stem, a delicacy cooked on festival days like Eid, Navroze and Gaadi Batti ( Festival of Kashmiri Pandits ).
- Mujh Gaad, a dish of radishes with a choice of fish.
- Haak Gaad, Fish curry cooked with kashmiri spinach.[70]
- Gada Ta Goagji, Ya Moanji, Ya Band Gupi, Fish cooked with Turnips, or Knol Khol, or Cabbage.[9]
- Hogada Ta Hak Ya Bum, Dried fish (bolinao and others[102]) with 'karam' saag or dried water-lily stems.[9]
- Kanz ta Gada Ya Guran, Fish or Small Fish or very Small Dried Fish, cooked with Fermented Rice-Water.[9]
- Fari/Phari, smoked fish.[9][176] A winter delicacy prepared in a particular method by only a few remaining households in Srinagar's Tiploo Mohalla.[177]
- Phari Ta Haak, Smoked fish with collard greens.[178]
Salads
- Salaad, a plate of sliced vegetables precisely cucumber, tomatoes and carrots, decorated in concentric circles on a plate. A side with lemon squeezed on top.[179]
Rice
Kashmiris eat a lot more rice than the people of the Jammu region:[180]
- Batta, steamed white rice.
- Waazeh Polav, a mildly sweet royal pulao flavoured with saffron and aromatic spices.[181]
- Gucchi Polav, Kashmiri pulao with black morels.[182]
- Tahaer, yellow rice. Prepared by Pandits on auspicious occasions, Muslims also prepare it on certain occasions.[9]
- Khetchar, made with rice and chilke wali moong dal, it is best enjoyed with monje aanchar.[183][184]
- Neni Moonge Khetchar, mutton and whole green lentils cooked in mustard oil and finished on dum with Basmati rice.[185]
- Vaer, Salted Rice Pudding with kernels of walnuts or intestines of sheep or goat. Always cooked by Kashmiri Pandits at the beginning of Weddings or 'Yagneopavit' ceremony.[9]
- Mayir, saltish pudding of rice cooked with diluted curd from which generally butter has been separated. Mostly prepared in rural areas particularly after a week or so on the happy occasion of the delivery of a cow.[9]
- Yaji, boiled and steam-cooked salty rice-flour cakes.[9]
Breads
- Kinke Tschut, a whole wheat unleavened flatbread cooked on a griddle.[72]
- Tschur Tschut, Spicy rice crêpes typically eaten with breakfast chai.[186]
- Tomul Tschut, Rotis made with rice flour.[187]
- Makai Tschut, corn flour chapatti.[188]
- Gyav Tschut, as the name suggests, made with generous amounts of ghee, served with rogan josh.[188]
- Makai Woer, afternoon bread prepared with corn flour that is relished with tea.[189]
Eggs
In certain rural areas, the tradition of putting an egg or two in kanger(fire pot) is known to each individual.[190] The fragrance of an egg cooking in the kanger would trigger the enzymes signaling the egg is ready:[190]
- Haak Ta Thool, collard greens and Eggs together.[191]
- Prezdar Ta Thool, Foxtail lilies with eggs, eaten locally in Kupwara.[192]
- Puch Gand Ta Thool,fresh spring onions and eggs, eaten with warm parathas or roti.[193]
- Thool Zambur, Kashmiri egg curry.
- Gogjee-aare Ta Zombre Thool, dried turnip and boiled egg.[194]
- Zombre Thool Ta Ruwangan Hachi, fried eggs in a tomato reduction with ginger, garlic and green chillies.[195]
- Ver Thool, Kashmiri spicy scrambled eggs.[196]
Game/Hunted Animals
- Pacchin, pintail. It is a delicacy enjoyed by Kashmiri Hindus who would not normally eat chicken.[197] The migratory bird looks like a duck but can fly with great speed. It comes to wetlands of Kashmir during winter.[198]
- Batook Palak, duck with spinach.[134]
- Batook te Zamut Dodh, duck in a curd curry.
- Shikar Rogan Josh, Roghan Josh of hunted game birds and animals such as mallard, geese, plover, snipe, rail, teal, quail, pintail, Wigeon, grouse, partridge, pheasant, spotted deer, hangal, antelope, wild goat etc.[9]
- Shikar Ta Nadeir, meat of game birds cooked with lotus roots.[9]
- Shikar Ta Haand, ducks and mallards prepared with dried dandelion.[199]
Dals
Kashmiri Pandits who were vegetarian and did not even eat onions and tomatoes were known as Dal Battas (Dal Pandits):[200]
- Dal Nadur, Lotus stem boiled with green beans to make a dal.[201]
- Vaari Muth Dal, Black Turtle Beans (Kashmiri Vaari Muth).[202]
- Vaari Muth Gogjee, Black Turtle Beans cooked with turnips.
- Razmah Dal, a red kidney bean stew with classic Kashmiri spice flavours of powdered ginger and fennel.[72]
- Razmah Gogjee, Kidney beans cooked with turnips.[70]
- Razmah Hemb, Various green beans cooked with tender pods.[9]
- Dal Dabbi, Traditional lentil preparation cooked in milk with spices.[203]
- Channe Baegle,Native to the valley of Kashmir, the dried baegle dal is loved more in winters.[204]
- Razmah Nadur [201]
- Thool Razmah Ta Oluv, fresh cranberry beans with potatoes.[205]
- Vangun Hachi Ta Moonge Dal, Dried brinjals with moong.[134]
Pickles/Preserved Foods
Kashmiri is one of the tangiest cuisines of the world.[206] Pickling has an important role in the food history of Kashmir that used to remain cut off because of harsh winters:[206]
Street Food
- Pumm-Buchh, lotus seeds, soft watery white and sweet to taste.[210]
- Makai Waet, roasted corn.[211]
- Nadur Maunj, sliced lotus stems marinated in spicy paste and deep fried.[70]
- Gaad Maunj, deboned fish deep fried in spiced flour.[212]
- Tandoori Chicken, Afghani Chicken, Chicken Lemon, varieties of street food at Khayam, Srinagar.
- Alla Posh Mond, pumpkin flower fritters.[213]
- Olav Mond, potato patty with ginger.
- Tillae Karrae, chickpeas or dried green peas, coated in a batter of flour and deep fried.[211]
- Mongh Masale, steamed black gram or kala moongh is mixed with salt and red chilli powder and served hot.[214]
- Matar, Kashmiri street food.
- Chunth Pakori, crisp slices of batter-coated and fried green apple.[116]
- Nadur Churma, lotus stem fries.[215]
- Olav Churma, fries.
- Kruhun Masale, a poor man's shawarma, a thin roti is made of refined flour in which boiled chana is rolled and then dipped in tomato chutney.[214]
- Masala Tschut, chickpea masala spread over a lavasa (kashmiri naan).[212]
- Paratha Halwa, soft fried rotis with sweet suji ka halwa paste.[212]
- Tobruk Halwa Paratha, deep fried poori with halwa.[211]
- Gaer Gojje, water chestnuts.[212]
- Mong V'or, moong Bean Patty.[216]
- Chilgozay, peanuts.[211]
Cheese
The nomadic shepherds of the Kashmir valley, Gujjars and Bakerwals move their herd of dairy cattle and their own settlements up and down the mountains based on changing seasons:[217]
Desserts
- Chounth Halwa.
- Barfi, a milk-based sweet dish.[221]
- Walnut Fudge, an exclusivity of Kashmir's Moonlight Bakery, the recipe contains 'snow-white walnuts' from Uri and honey and dates from local market.[222]
- Khatai, a Kashmiri sweet biscuit that crumbles on each bite.[155]
- Khandde Gazir, crunchy bites of sugared sweet treats.[212]
- Modur Polav, milk, saffron, ghee and cinnamon are used to make this pulao with a plethora of dry fruits such as almonds, cashews and raisins.[223]
- Khir, rice pudding.[9]
- Kong Phirin, saffron flavoured rice pudding garnished with nuts.[70]
- Seemni, vermicelli kheer.
- Shufta, a traditional dessert made with chopped dry fruits, spices like pepper powder, cardamom and more, in sugar syrup, garnished with rose petals.[187]
- Shufta Kanagucchi, cottage cheese, dry fruits, saffron, milk, desi ghee and morels from Srinagar.[116][224]
- Roth, sweet rotis made with flour, ghee and sugar.[187]
- Basrakh, A sweet delicacy made from flour with a touch of ghee.[225]
- Tosha, an age-old Kashmiri dessert.[225]
- Shangram, dried halwa balls.[212]
- Lyde, kashmiri dessert made with whole wheat flour.[226]
- Nabad, crystallized sugar.[227]
- Gulkand, indigenous rose preserved in a sugar base.[228]
- Matka Kulfi, kulfi topped with cold noodles.[229]
- Kesar Kulfi.[230]
- Dry Fruit Kulfi.[230]
Other Baked foods
The Kashmir Valley is noted for its bakery tradition. On the Dal Lake in Kashmir or in downtown Srinagar, bakery shops are elaborately laid out. Bakers sell various kinds of breads with golden brown crusts topped with sesame and poppy seeds. Tsot and tsochvor are small round breads topped with poppy and sesame seeds, which are crisp and flaky, sheermal, baqerkhayn (puff pastry), lavas (unleavened bread) and kulcha are also popular. Girdas and lavas are served with butter.
Kashmiri bakerkhani has a special place in Kashmiri cuisine. It is similar to a round naan in appearance, but crisp and layered, and sprinkled with sesame seeds.[231] It is typically consumed hot during breakfast.[232]
Wazwan

The main skill of a Vazavan lies in two things: 1. Method of preparation of Minced Meat for 'Rista' and 'Goashtaba'. 2. Preparation of a Seasoning, made of Onions and Shallots.[9]
Beverages
Noon Chai or Sheer Chai
Kashmiris are heavy tea drinkers. Kashmiris don't use the word "Kashmiri Chai". The word "Noon" in Kashmiri means salt. The most popular drink is a pinkish colored salted tea called "noon chai."[234] It is made with black tea, milk, salt and bicarbonate of soda. The particular color of the tea is a result of its unique method of preparation and the addition of soda. The Kashmiri Hindus more commonly refer to this chai as "Sheer Chai." The Kashmiri Muslims refer to it as "Noon Chai" or "Namkeen Chai", both meaning salty tea.
Noon Chai or Sheer Chai is a common breakfast tea in Kashmiri households and is taken with breads like baqerkhani brought fresh from Qandur (Kashmiri : کاندر ) or bakers. It is one of the most basic and essential food items in a Kashmiri household. Tea was as served in large samavars. Now, the use of Samavars is limited to special occasions and normally kettles are used.
Kahwah
At marriage feasts, festivals, and religious places, it is customary to serve kahwah – a green tea made with saffron, spices, and almonds or walnuts. Over 20 varieties of Kahwah are prepared in different households. Some people also put milk in kahwah (half milk and half kahwah). This chai is also known as "Maugal Chai" by some Kashmiri Hindus from the smaller villages of Kashmir. Kashmiri Muslims and Kashmiri Hindus from the cities of Kashmir refer to it as Kahwah or Qahwah.
Special Occasions & Festivals
Eid-ul-Fitr
While on fast, Muslims avoid consuming food during the day, while at dusk, they indulge in extra-special, bountiful meals prepared during the day.[235] The menu for Ramadan month includes khajur ka laddoo (date balls), babribyol (basil seeds), kulfi, phirin, seemni, fruit chaat, fruit custard, kateer (a drink loaded with health benefits) and noon chai.[235]
Eid-ul-Adha
As the festival draws to a close, most well-to-do families start placing orders with the wazas for the feast, which is cooked by chefs at their own places and then sold to the customers for serving at their homes.[236] Sacrificial animals include Delhi Walla, Merino Cross, Bakerwal and Kashmiri varieties of sheep.[237]
Urs of Hazrat Sheikh Dawood
Only vegetarian food is supplied to devotees.[238] Majority of people in Batmaloo and adjoining areas turn vegetarian and do not eat meat or chicken.[238]
Urs of Khwaja Masood Wali
The people of Pampore cook dried vegetables, eggs, cheese and other food stuff except meat and invite their relatives, friends on lunch or dinner to keep the tradition of the saint alive.
Urs of Dastageer Sahab
In Khanyar and Sarai Bala areas of Srinagar, the devotees are seen outside the shrines where local and non-local business establishments install their carts and are seen selling the Kashmiri traditional food stuff.
Herath
For Kashmiri Pandits, the prasad offering at Shivratri puja is a charger piled high with rice, cooked lamb and fish, and a luscious raw fish in its entirety atop the pile.[239]
Khets Mavas
Celebrated on the amavasya or the last day of the dark fortnight of Pausha(December–January), Khets Mavas or Yakshamavasya is an important festival of Kashmiri Pandits.[240] A mutton khichdi with fresh mutton marinated in a bit of curd is offered as sacrificial food.[240]
Har Navum
On the 9th day of the month of ashad, Pandits in Kashmir offer the deity Sharika yellow rice cooked with turmeric, a little oil and salt along with tsarvan (goat's liver).[241]
Cooking Methods
The quality of pots is important, according to wosta(ustad) or chief waza Nazir Ahmed Aram.[8] He says they must have the right content of copper. Using wood (walnut and apple are the best) is important too. Cooking on gas is not the same. The special equipments used to cook Kashmiri food are:
Dan
On normal days the cooking in both Hindu and Muslim homes is mostly done on a dan, which is an oblong clay oven about 3 ft by 2 ft in length and a foot and a half in height.[242]
Traem
These are large brass plates used for serving food.[242]
Leij/Deigul/Deigcha
Among Kashmiri Pandits, most dishes are cooked in pots of baked clay. Pots used in Kashmir are round-bottomed.[242]
Tasht-naar
These are a portable washbasin and a pitcher that are passed around to wash hands during big banquets.[242]
Goshpar-Kaen
These are a flat coarse stone and a wooden mallet made of walnut wood used for pounding meat to a fine texture.[242]
Krech
These are different kinds of wooden spoons and ladles used for turning the food in clay pots so that the base does not get scraped.[242]
Khalur-Dula
This is a stone mortar with a wooden pestle used for grinding chutneys and pastes.[242]
Samovar
This jug-shaped metallic pitcher has a long tube inside that is filled with charcoal, which keeps the tea in the pot brewing.[242]
Etiquette of Kashmiri Dining
Language and Food are the two vital parts of the region's identity.[243] 'One who eats properly shall rule the country' it is said.[244] Kashmiris are very particular about the taste of dishes.[88] Food connoisseurs can easily taste a single morsel and name the waza who cooked it.[88]
In Kashmir, it is said that food should both taste and look good.[9] Its aroma must be appetizing. Success of a meal lies in its appeal to the eyes, nose and then the tongue. Any event, from a minor one such as receiving a guest in one's home, to a major one such as a circumcision or a wedding, becomes a celebration of preparing, laying out, serving and consuming together the most delicious victuals.[245]
Giant dastarkhaans (white sheets) are spread on the floor on which the meal is served.[245] However humble or lofty the fare on it, the dastarkhaan has always been the center of warm hospitality and conviviality.[245] In big Kashmiri dinners, a hundred to five hundred people are usually invited.[9] Since insurgency and the resultant violence and bloodshed, food has come to hold even greater meaning as each meal signifies a celebration of life itself.[245] It is worth mentioning that wazas (the descendents of Samarkandi cooks), whose shops are located in particular areas of the city of Srinagar, form a significant political group in Kashmir.[245]
All dishes are eaten by hand as Kashmiris believe in an intimate relationship with food.[88] Even spiritual and religious old biddies feel no qualms in chomping on ear cartilage or marrow bones long after the meal is done, pulverising everything into a heap on the thali.[239] No one bats an eyelid.[239] Kashmiris consider it disrespectful if one refuses food varieties or an extra helping.[88] They can go great lengths to persuade, swearing to die if you refuse an extra serving![88]
Contemporary Kashmiri Cuisine
Prateek Sadhu, formerly at Masque (Mumbai) is mining his Kashmiri roots to win international fame.[246] His food is characterised by dishes such as roghan josh sausages[246] and raisin-glazed quail served with a yakhni broth.[247] Entrepreneur Tariq Ahmad, the 'Pizza Man' of Kashmir, set chicken on roti and sold it to customers in wazwan loving Kashmir.[248] US-based Kashmiri entrepreneur Uffaq Mattu ships chicken patties, harissa bites, shaami kabaab burgers, crumbled tschaman and tamatar pizzas to almost all the 50 states in the US.[249] At her Uffi's Kitchen, French fries were replaced with Nadir Monje, and chicken wings by waaze kokur wings.[249] At Rooh, San Francisco, they make the signature dish of tabakh maaz with Californian Superior Lamb, and French braising techniques.[250] 2019 Masterchef Australia contestant Sandeep Pandit was born in Kashmir, and cooks tamatar gaad (tomato fish) using Australian barramundi.[251]
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Further reading
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Wikimedia Commons has media related to Cuisine of Kashmir. |
- "Chor Bizarre". Wazwan. Archived from the original on 23 December 2005. Retrieved 16 December 2005.
- "Kashmiri Cuisine". Kashmiri Cuisine- food and recipes:Mumbai/Bombay pages. 9 September 2000. Retrieved 16 December 2005.